Lulu’s gang goes in for new house codes and all-star line-ups.
Making her catwalk debut on Saturday morning after a static (but sensational) presentation at the Tate for AW17, British-Indian designer Supriya Lele made good on the former’s initial experimentation with texture: shiny, sheer and plastic pieces here were prevalent throughout. Layering, cut-outs and loose gathers likewise caught the eye, while elsewhere Wonderland’s attention was focused on the delicious diamante earrings and belts (the latter marrying Lele’s Indian heritage with an early 00s vibe), and darling kinks that brushed the back of each model’s hair.
Last season it was the press release-as-takeaway menu, this season rows of fortune cookies filled benches: on the catwalk, British-Chinese-Vietnamese designer A Sai Ta’s SS18 collection likewise riffed on themes familiar but far from identical to his AW17 collection. A sense of chaos, aided by a mix of shaggy and frayed fabrics remained, while nunchucks as handbags replaced last season’s Sienna Miller circa 2001 vibing belts as a key accessory (our hearts are set on the white and blue painted thigh high boots too). Failed to pick up one of AW17’s hero worthy multicoloured sheer tops? Make room for SS18’s sleeveless dress of the same nature. Divine.
Edie Campbell followed by Jean Campwell followed by Wonderbabe Winnie Harlow followed by Georgia May Jagger followed by Eliza Cummings and on and on; to say the casting at Matty Bovan’s Fashion East finale was a dream was to state the obvious. Away from the Yorkshire based designer’s all-star line-up though, a stream of Aztec knits, metallic threads and quilted panels filled the stage. With, presumably, an eye on post-FE commerciality, cotton tees shrieking ‘Mountvale Activewear’ also made the cut – tutu silhouettes and illustrated prints too.