Wonderland.

NYFW: Helmut Lang SS18

Exploring Shayne Oliver’s unique spin on the Austrian brand.

Sheer Ambition

Known for his fuck the system approach to fashion – which has previously manifested itself in a runway collaboration with PornHub(!), models hitting the catwalk on crutches and an end-of-show voguing performance – Hood By Air’s Shayne Oliver is the boundary breaker that the fashion industry not just wants, but needs. It’s no wonder that Editor in Residence, Isabella Burley has tapped Oliver for Helmut Lang’s first designer in residence spot. For his debut showcase for the brand, there was a clear HBA crossover: oozing sensuality, pieces included red leather jockstraps with metal ring detailing on the crotch worn over black layered trousers, while sultry sheer materials and bondage straps were commonplace throughout. Despite the typically sensual undercurrent, oversized coats, bold, statement cuts and striking opaque accessories meant there was more to see.

Accessorise & Maximise

The use of accessories and props are a firm fave for Oliver. Remember those crazy AF mouthpieces for his Spring 16 HBA collection? We do too, and we’re still in awe, TBH. For Helmut Lang, accessories took on a life of their own. Huge bags (like, seriously huge) and satchels, some held and some worn across the body, were firm faves throughout the showcase. All in different colours from bold bright reds to laid-back beiges with a multitude of cuts and designs, the standout piece was the opaque oversized briefcase.

Do It Diversely

Imperative on every runway, in our frank opinion, is model diversity, and when it came to Helmut Lang’s Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear collection, the casting was as diverse as it gets. Featuring models of varying race, age and gender, Oliver made sure that inclusivity, alongside an amazing location and collection (obvs), were atop his agenda.

NYFW: Helmut Lang SS18

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