Exploring the best of the city’s catwalks, trade shows and streetstyle.
The Danish intro references are as plentiful as they are accurate – cycling is wildly popular, the population is pretty handsome, and the knack for contemporary streetwear is on point – but cheap thrills aside, the country’s capital is also privy to one of the perhaps lesser known (but increasingly relevant) fashion weeks.
With trade shows scheduled alongside catwalk shows and parties colliding with football tournaments (shoutout to Wood Wood’s 15th anniversary celebrations last Thursday), Copenhagen is home to a hotbed of talent and indeed, boasts the right platforms, putting it front and centre on our radar. Below we’ve rounded up seven highlights from the SS18 edition.
Probably one of the most familiar names on the schedule, the Danish designer has been showing her menswear collections in London since AW12, when she debuted under the Fashion East umbrella alongside Agi & Sam and Shaun Samson. Already claiming shop space and a studio in town, Andersen introduced womenswear in her native city two seasons ago; accompanied by a James Massiah produced soundtrack, for SS18 her line-up (for which pop star MØ was tapped) was comprised of new denim looks and gathered leg warmer vibes as well as sports silhouettes and her trademark lace.
Located less than a stone’s throw from the city’s Meatpacking District (that place full of bars and restaurants that riff on ‘cool’ and come up whenever a pal uses Facebook as their own personal TripAdvisor), trade show Revolver has played temporary home to numerous brands since arriving in 2015. Initially dominated by the industry’s buying teams, this season saw journalists, bloggers and the rest (read: specially invited) roaming the space, sampling the free sweets and discovering new fave labels, amongst them Fjord Ruby and Freya Dalsjø who impressed with some strong VR action.
Furiously gaining speed thanks to its many appearances on social media – Business of Fashion recently described it as a breakout star of the Instagram boom – frozen cocktails and fortune cookies preceded Ganni’s early evening show, one of this season’s key highlights. 17 years after it was founded by an art gallery owner – and eight since current designers Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup took over – this season the brand prescribed leopard print under layers, bold flower prints, flowing gowns and ankle height cowboy boots.
Perhaps the best way to describe the streetstyle outside Copenhagen’s shows and behind the desks of Revolver’s insiders is like the absolute finest of Tommy Ton’s back catalogue. Those ladies and gents who marry modern influences with chic silhouettes and a hero piece that doesn’t need branding to claim your attention? Everywhere, many adorned with floral summer frocks and plenty showcasing the stiletto’s return. Bright colours, clean shapes and sweatshirts elsewhere do good aesthetic business.
A large warehouse, a massive fake cloud, several coloured sheets of plastic and a makeshift studio with lightsaber’s in place of lamps: Stine Goya’s presentation may have made sense of the hour bracket awarded it on our schedules (read: no clothes for the first 30 minutes), but quite something it definitely was. Likewise seeing the girls lined up beside the water for post-show snaps. Here glittering boots polished off full looks of pink, yellow and red produced in silk, smothered in sequins or carrying whimsical applique.
An intern falling asleep is not most designer’s idea of inspiration, but if the opening moments of Henrik Visbov’s SS18 show – held at night in the fine grounds of Charlottenborg Palace – were anything to go by, the rumours here were indeed bang on: a bold group of ‘dolls’ in sleeping bags and books decorated the centre of the showspace, as models paraded by, eye masks fixed to many. Sartorially, this season Visbov focused on loose shapes, ruffle necks, cotton and denim textures and printed suits.
One of those moments where it’s only when you’re scrolling through your phone while tucking into a pizza at Mother that you realise you missed something and a scroll becomes a ten minute stint of anti-socialness. An LVMH Prize finalist earlier this year, Cecilie Bahnsen’s SS18 collection riffed on ideas shared by Balenciaga, Simone Rocha, Shrimps and Molly Goddard, marrying girlish undertones with a modern woman sensibility, exaggerated silhouettes and a soft palette that together will no doubt contribute to hers being a name to be known.