Exploring 080’s latest highlights.
With almost 31,000 people making the pilgrimage to the former Hospital de Sant Pau, the 20th edition of Barcelona Fashion Week was a vibrant display of artistry, playful innovation, and in BCN Brand’s case, skateboards.
“Barcelona has always been associated with design innovation and I have always been impressed with the talent emerging from 080,” explains Wonderland‘s own Carlo Kamchis, whose role as a member of the judging jury – for the coveted 080 National Prize for Emerging Design – saw him saw FROW throughout. “The competing collections looked to the future of Catalan fashion design while maintaining all the cultural references that have makes 080 one of our favourite fashion destinations.”
While all of the 37 brands and designers who showcased their collections over the week captured our attention in different ways, below are a few of our favourites.
Picking up the Best Collection award this year was jewellery designer, Elena Estaun with her ‘Ethnic Vibes’ titled line-up. Inspired by the metamorphosis of women over time, Estaun merged jewellery and clothes to create a gold-studded collection that begins in the stages of the ‘primitive woman’ and ends with her interpretation of the ‘futuristic woman’ of 2017. Billowing silks and reimagined chainmail swept down the catwalk, while everyday objects – nuts, fossils and old keys – were given new functionality as wearable chokers, wristbands, and headpieces; if only our history lessons could have been taught by Elena Estaun.
The award for Emerging Design – a prize provided by Spanish brand Desigual – went to Barcelona native and former tennis player, Maria Fontanellas from Meitis. Taking the determination and discipline from her teenage pastime, Fontanellas created ‘Cosmic Cinderella’, a fusion of the treasured fairy-tale, futurism and motor sports. With colour-block leather providing the foundation of the collection – as inspired by Fontanellas’ family history – the brand’s proposal for SS18 gave a commanding edge to the delicate silhouettes inspired by the architecture of the Palais Bulle, the flappers of the 20s and Walt Disney’s classic animation from 1950.
Marta López – creative director of Torras – was awarded the 080 Modacc Prize for Best Collection by an Exporting Brand for ‘Beat Generation’. As its name suggests, the collection has been inspired by the beatnik spirit that resonated in the literature and music of the 50s, from which Torras has extracted an exhilarating sense of nonconformity and freedom. Models descended down the catwalk in various styles of leather jackets and suits that emanated the finessed sense of nonchalance typical of the era, while neckties and motorcycle paraphernalia performed as a final nod to all things Jack Kerouac.
Brain & Beast
Known for its playful inclusion of games and riddles, a Brain & Beast show is always guaranteed to be a standout event. The brand has quickly developed a cult following since its founding in 2010 by Ángel Vilda, and its latest offering, ‘Labyrinth’, hasn’t disappointed anyone. Taking reference from psychoanalyst Jacques Lacan – whose cryptic suggestion that humour is a disguise of being is a riddle in itself – the collection is an exploration of memory, melancholy and lost humour that has manifested into a series of slogan T-shirts, cut and paste prints, and unsettling face paint.
Bringing things back to the traditional was family brand Macson, whose premiere catwalk show ‘The Last Exit’ served as a tribute to the brand’s 75th birthday as well as a demonstration of its appreciation for British style. Paying homage to several decades of British fashion, the collection pulled in classic silhouettes including capes, suits, and coats that had been given a contemporary twist for the debut. Colours ranged from regal purple to more subtle hues of navy and grey, while prints – as to be expected – covered everything from tartan to the British flag.
For ‘Light Years Cruise’, Custo Barcelona’s latest line-up, the catwalk was transformed into an intergalactic stage as each model emerged in vibrant shades of velvet, sequin, and sparkling lurex, bringing the carefree and psychedelic styles of both northern and southern California together. A tribute to the power of individuality, each piece in the collection was an ingenious exploration of colour, texture, and pattern that provided its wearer with a creative take on sophistication.