Out of Kilter
The UK’s decision to leave the European Union last year has been one of the most documented events in British history. Keen to employ his expert eye for capturing the contemporary zeitgeist, Samuel Ross has added himself to the list of designers who have chosen to reflect the political imbalance of the present moment within their collections. Ross presents disunity by use of trousers that have been split at the seams, hoodies and shirts that have whole panels missing, and suit jackets that appear to have been made from different sized patterns; the shopping baskets carried – and frantically shaken – by his model line-up, could likewise be read as a nod to political markets.
Boys to Men
In line with the young designer’s social commentary, Ross’ collection features a distinct tension between youthful school-day experiences and workplace banality, an apt follow up to the brand’s “ACADEMIA* CORRECTION WORKSHOP” pop-up store that opened last month. Jackets draped over hoodies, nylon raincoats covered pinstriped trousers, and fleeting flashes of primary colours were present throughout. The resulting amalgamation of the two opposing spheres highlights Ross’ condemnation of class divisions as much as it speaks for the aftershock of Brexit.
Bringing all the diverse elements of the collection together was a series of statement accessories that served to reiterate the themes raised by Ross. Equally as important as his clothes, Ross’ accessories aided the designer’s exploration of the modern British experience; the aforementioned paper-lined, metal shopping baskets, and a series of awkward square frames. Other ensembles featured scuffed, laceless trainers, drawstring rucksacks, and misplaced sweatbands.