Although Matthew Miller chose the opulent interior of London’s St. Sepulchre Church to exhibit his new collection, the garments on show were anything but sacred. Bondage style straps crept over shoulders and midriffs, acting as harnesses for disjointed pockets secured to the clothes by hefty metal buckles. There was also something distinctively whip-like about the black chord belts slung around the models hips, a perfect match for the ‘Parts of Four’ chain bracelets used by Miller; just in case you haven’t had enough of the S&M references that is.
Miller’s experiment with degeneration, also the title of his collection, was not limited to his clothes and accessories however. Each model, or rather, each degenerate if you will, sported the same, purposefully smudged lipstick in the ominous tones of black and bruised purple, a distinct nod to the depraved underworld that Miller successfully channelled for the show. We can’t see the makeup being recreated for SS18, but it certainly corresponded with the designer’s perverse intentions.
Amid the collection’s pointed rebellion and debauched undertones were a series of strong shapes that maintained a necessary degree of order. Crisp trench coats made from 100% waterproof rubber bonded, natural cloth in collaboration with Hancock were the stars of the show, while sharp tuxedo suits made ideal companions for relaxed shirts and draping scarves. Miller also included several female models who appeared sporting the same suits under cascades of black tulle; the perfect combination of structure and fashionable disorder.