The Waist Prevails
Three years after making his debut as the house’s creative director, Nicolas Ghesquière’s latest outing at Louis Vuitton only further exposed his obsession with the waist, a near constant feature of his collections since AW14. This season belts, both battered brown leather and ribbed army surplus store style, drew the eye to the models centrepoints, knotted in a relaxed fashion to the left. Creating a consistent silhouette in an otherwise patchwork like line-up (think magpie devised fabric selections), such focus added a subtle military element to proceedings.
No doubt we can all agree that Ghesquière’s handwriting is as good looking as it is confident, but this season a series of one offs seriously stole our hearts. As far as full looks go, Natalie Westling combining Margot Tenenbaum’s fur coat and Chas Tenenbaum’s primary coloured sportswear was a beautiful hit, while elsewhere the peach coloured monkey fur proved pastel can, in actual fact, be punk. Later a brown leather jacket – knee length with intriguing metal buttons – brought the most wonderful collar to the world’s attention, its points doing an absolute service for the leather.
All Lined Up
While skirt hemlines veered between thigh high, knee length and ever so slightly further south, trousers – of which there were plenty – stood united, every pair tied to the last with a shared stop point and a white line alluding to a pleat down each leg. Taking the top spot in our list of must haves was a fantastic shiny pair (partnering a white knit jumper and camel coloured boots for look 28); notable mentions go out to the streamlined brown variety and look 43’s black pocket fronted vibe (an anomaly and a winner with it).