The Future of the Silhouette
Abstract design isn’t a new thought process in the realm of Rei Kawabuko, but for Comme des Garcons’s AW17 show silhouettes were perhaps more exaggerated than normal; paying tribute to bug made cocoons, shapes appeared like an artist’s impression of those Impulse ads from the early noughties – in which otherwise hip young women couldn’t move their arms for fear of visible sweat marks. Under the label ‘The Future of the Silhouette’, here models were swallowed up in bubbles composed of carpet swatches and metallic insulation fabric.
Comme des Nike
As evidenced in the hugely popular Dover Street Market, Kawabuko isn’t afraid to explore the industry’s more commercial avenues: hence this season looks that could quite comfortably sit on a plinth at Frieze were paired with Nike trainers and nonchalantly rolled down socks. Given thought it makes sense – aesthetically the flat shoe balances out the beast like pieces, while when it comes to tech the sports heavyweight is perhaps one of the most forward thinking in its field.
Working with long-time collaborator, the hair stylist Julien d’Ys, this season Comme’s 18 piece line-up donned wigs that referenced everything from Blue Peter and outer space to the elaborate wigs of the 17th and 18th centuries. Formed of metallic net fabric (think washing up tools reimagined), the headpieces added a further element to Kawabuko’s form redefining production.