LFW: Margaret Howell AW17

Margaret Howell provides a mellow moment amongst the harsh buzz of LFW.

Easy Like Sunday Morning

The queen of low key, Margaret Howell’s Sunday morning preview was the antithesis of the previous evening’s buzz, and was all the better for it. Using dance company Rambert’s top floor Southbank studio for a venue – think light grey flooring, copious amounts of white and a single mirrored wall – the show opened to Nina Simone’s cover of the Leonard Cohen track “Suzanne” and maintained a relaxed vibe throughout; soft silhouettes and subtle trainer designs mirrored the type of aesthetic smug couples throw on for casual walks along the Southbank, just outside its doors.

All Tied Up

A formality not frequently associated with the label, ties made multiple appearances in the AW17 line-up across both the men’s and womenswear looks. Tapped as a vehicle with which to bring pattern into the mix, paisley prints trickled down the neck of every wearer; another key styling note and in-keeping with the loose translation of school uniform-cum-off duty office worker were half tucked shirts.

Mellow Yellow

Yes, there were the germane shades of grey, navy and khaki that have long occupied the Margaret Howell colour trajectory – noted here in cord trousers, wool kilts and cotton aprons – but what stole additional second looks were the flashes of bright colour: yellow scarves predominantly, as well as burnt orange knit jumpers. The former, partnering otherwise neutral outfits, particularly lifted the collection, and did good as a signifier for the ‘just thrown it on’ effortlessness of Howell’s world.

Iolsi Lewis Edwards