New York New York
Officially claiming the Chief Creative Officer title at Calvin Klein back in August, last night Raf Simons’ eponymous label made its debut in the former’s city as part of New York Fashion Week: Men’s. Like last season’s Robert Mapplethorpe heavy collection – and those which embraced Peter Saville and Simons’ own youth before it – this season the heart on his sleeve belonged to New York, with heavy knits proclaiming ‘NY’ or ‘I LOVE YOU’ in text that matched the font of everyone’s favourite tourist tee.
Accessories Maketh The Man
While it was the tape as belt concept that caught the bulk of Instagram’s attention – and not for no reason, the DIY inspired look clasped waists in an aesthetically pleasing manner while providing a further nod to the designer’s arrival in the city, the materials reading as wrapping – noteworthy elsewhere was the jewellery: necklaced accompanied all 41 looks Simons’ served. A combination of metal and beads – some with additional charms – they hung around the models necks with a sense of purpose, adding a new element to a collection heavy on the tailoring.
Rarely has the Belgian designer shied away from the oversized, whether that’s meant oxford bag silhouettes or XXL rugby inspired sweaters: for AW17 though trousers were plain big. Like the new kid at school whose mum says he’ll grow into them, many looks saw the ankle bear the brunt as fabric gathered south, while in several cases the full leg was surrounded by fabric that didn’t hit skin. Either way, it worked.