While the wotsit-orange florals and Renaissance Italianate frescoes prints on wafting floor-length gowns were beautiful, the starring print was the laser-lit panorama of a Star Wars-worthy space battle, with lasers, rocket-ships and even Transformers lighting up the dark night on tight combat suits and dresses. While we’re used to Moschino’s Creative Director Jeremy Scott looking at pop culture for influence (remember the McDonald’s and Barbie collections?), this time around it was the autobots of Transformers that he was inspired by. It certainly got us thinking – what will our future be like?
With the world in a more precarious situation than ever, the re-emergence of military-wear makes a statement. Scott’s take on it (he even named the collection “Paramilitary”) was profound; olive cotton drill and parachute silk made up jumpsuits, with elongated MA1 bombed jackets destined to be this Autumn’s must-have jacket. Tailcoats printed with scenes of conflict, harnesses evoking scenes of a bomber plane cockpit and even berets that resembled disassembled Swiss Army knives (hand-hewn by none other than Judy Blame) were in the mix too, making the Moschino boys and girls ready for a call to arms.
Set in an indeterminate future (with the real location being one of Milan’s ancient palazzos), Scott’s Moschino collection for AW17 was a clash between the dystopia and uncertainty of the future – with reference to Scott’s personal take on his home of America’s political climate – and the hope of a brighter future. The models emerged to the flaming scarlet glow of digital clocks set to countdown, emphasising the pressing issue of our social and political climate.