With the Autumn/Winter 2017 Collection shows and presentations kicking off at London Fashion Week: Mens tomorrow, Wonderland has been given a sneak peak into what we can look forward to from this season’s collections. First up, BERTHOLD.
“With so much going on in the world, the images we started to collect in the studio at the beginning of the season all related to change in some way. There are photographs of scars and stitches embedded deep into the skin, 3-D printed prosthetics and metal body braces. Details such as athletic tape curved around legs and arms; thick, rough bandages wrapping heads and concealing identities. Texture too was taken from papers that have been folded and soft leather that is torn.”
What was the starting point for this collection?
The first things to go up on the mood board were photographs of archival leg braces and artificial limbs. I was drawn to their shape and structure – they’re architectural in the way that they support the body. This lead onto athletic tape curved around legs and arms; thick, rough bandages wrapping heads and concealing identities.
What are the main themes in this collection and what inspired them?
With so much going on in the world the images we started to collect in the studio all related to change in some way. There are photographs of scars and stitches embedded deep into the skin alongside 3-D printed prosthetics and metal body braces.
You’re an art fanatic too – has your art collection inspired your designs for this season? And how do you think art and fashion are related?
Unlike the last few seasons where one work has inspired the whole collection, this time I was looking at the prosthetics and body braces like sculptures in themselves.
What fabrics and technical details does this collection include?
There are exaggerated fins on trousers and at the hem of jackets. Splits in the sleeves and at the knees of skinny trousers. Fabrics are rich felted wool, a heavy barathea with a beautiful drape and a dry, dimple-textured technical cloth.
How would you describe this collection in three words?
Crisp, corporeal, chic
What’s your favourite thing about LCM?
It’s better than New York.