Rick Owens was purely positive for SS17.
Always one for vying away from the norm, Rick Owens mixed together the weird and unusual when it came to his fabric combinations. The most peculiar of these fabrics was the buckram cloth – traditionally used for bookbinding – but these unusual innovations are what makes Rick Owens so unique. There were hints of pleats and darts, horsehair wrapping around the body, knots of fur placed on shoulders and long, drifting grey, plummy purple and muddy brown feathering flapping like long wings in the breeze.
Following on from last season, Rick Owens concentrated on the technicalities of drape and its movement. Long dresses were topped with sideways vests, while a twisted tulle dress flicked and flowed around legs, providing dynamism and incredible volume. It led the garments slightly off-kilter; clothes were twisted and wrapped around in ways that are off-kilter and slightly bizarre, but it’s Rick Owens down to the bone.
Rick Owen’s SS17 invite was a hint into what was to come from the show, even before a hint of soundtrack (which was Nina Simone) and a glimpse of the garments. The dark yet light whirlpool on the invite was a hint as to the both dark and light qualities in his work, a paradox he explored through the collection and the staging at Palais De Toyko, where he transformed the space into a transporting portal. Backstage, he emphasised his thoughts and inspiration in positivity and joy. He certainly made us happy.