For new Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello’s debut collection, expectations were sky high. The show was held at a former monastery, which was a military headquarters before turning derelict and being rescued by the Saint Laurent team for their new HQ – the perfect setting to begin this new and highly-anticipated chapter. After the hyped appointment of Vaccarello, it was anyone’s guess what direction he’d take the brand; his SS17 debut was shamelessly sexy, with classic YSL references (skinny smoking suits anyone?) and a nod to his predecessor’s 80s glamrock influences. Saint Laurent to the core.
Saint Laurent SS17 got us ready for the party. Plunging bustier tops and dresses in skin-tight leather and velvet effortlessly evoked a vision of the girl that thinks the streets of Paris are her permanent disco, while pelmet skirts and classic boyfriend jeans came before a section of draped gold lame, that glistened like pure liquid gold. A “nip slip” dress was smoothly pulled off by Binx Walton, alongside torn lace asymmetric tops, one-sleeve dresses, shimmering gold and turquoise leopard prints and shoulder-grazing tassle earrings in every colour in the rainbow – it was a myriad of dream disco outfits.
Flats and heels, creeper-style trainers and winged stilettos – Saint Laurent covered all bases. The show-stealers were undoubtedly were the YSL-heeled shoes that harked back to 80s logo obsession – there were also matching YSL earring for those that want to make it obvious just whose clan they’re in. Patent black suit shoes also walked, as well as stilettos with shimmering black, red, gold and pink wings, embroidered tapestry stilettos (to match the tapestry jackets, naturally) and a creeper/boot hybrid shoe. We want them all.