Wonderland.

PFW: Jacquemus SS17

Jacquemus takes us to sunny southern France for SS17

Sharp Shoulders, Square Toes

Jacquemus is always one for making a statement. Cue oversized proportions, with shoulders padded to high heavens and voluminous sleeves. Sharp shoulders were balanced out by waists cinched with post box red statement belts, while an electric blue checked shirt was worn with bare legs and shoes were squared off at the toe and heeled with geometric blocks. The colour palette was kept simple and fresh, with clean whites, cream, navy, black, electric blue and hints of red keeping the drama away from the colour and all on the silhouettes. The final look, a floor-sweeping white dress, wide-shouldered with lace cut-outs at the knees and wrists, encapsulated Jacquemus’ idea for SS17: voluminous shoulders, boldly square shoes, and exquisite shirting.

Provincial Life

For a designer constantly inspired by his childhood in the sunny French south, Simon Porte Jacquemus took it into the literal for SS17, with his interpretation of Provençal folk dress (there were no croissants, alas). For the collection, titled “Les Santons De Provence”, traditional circular straw hats (to keep the blaring sun from blinding them) donned the heads of fresh faced and glowing models, who walked in subtly flared linen coats and trailing asymmetric skirts with intricate and layered fan pleating. Elsewhere, a grey tulle tutu was layered over linen trousers and Jacquemus’ marvelled shirting skills were demonstrated through shirts crafted as dresses and paired with wide pinstripe trousers with deep cuffs.

Stairway To Heaven

Famed for the experience he provides his show-goers, Jacquemus knows the power of a simple, but atmopsheric, catwalk set. Rather than just a simple flat catwalk, Jacquemus’s girls walked down a heavy-duty stairway, made up of platforms of metal and wood, leading up to a bright orange, glaring fake sun. Basking the models in a sunny glow, Jacquemus brought the hues of a Cannes sunset to Paris, making our grey September skies a little bit brighter.

PFW | Jacquemus SS17

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