The Moschino woman for SS17 is a paper doll with separate paper clothes, attached to her with folding tabs. The most playful look is a one-piece swimsuit printed to look like a bikini, complete with anatomical midriff. Even all the accessories are cut paper.
Most of the looks are white on the back, in order to focus the attention on the fake end ephemeral nature of fashion. It’s Jeremy’s cultural comment, but also a celebration of the aesthetic of appearance. It was difficult for guests in the front row understand what was reality and what illusion. What looked like a blouse and cardigan belted over a skirt with pearls, was an optical illusion of a one-piece dress. While a disco soundtrack blended with orchestra music, an old-fashioned French voice-over announced dress types, narrating and repeating French words for clothing like a vocabulary lesson.
The the theme of collection is Valley of the Dolls, Jacqueline Susann’s scandalous 1966 bestseller. In the book and movie, a trio of hotties deals with fame, fortune, and pill addiction, always referring to their pills as “dolls.” Moschino’s invitation was a box of pills and the ticket was a prescription, written out by none other than Dr. Moschino. The accessories capsule range is, literally, covered in capsules, including backpacks and zipper clutches, and a t-shirt with a slogan warding off addiction: “Just say Moschi NO”. We don’t think we’ll be able to resist.