Wonderland.

MFW: Prada SS17

Feather trims, checks and PJs are all you need for SS17 says Queen Prada. We shall obey.

Ladies who lounge

After her globetrotting adventures and spending a season on the sea, the Prada lady feels like staying at home. Or at least wearing her pyjamas all day and be snuggled up in the softest of fabrics and easy-peasy shapes. While the set was minimal, a little cold and futuristic, the clotting was familiar and pleasant. Dare I say home-y? An all-black look opened the show, a simple tank and a knee-length, slim kilt. While it had to be paired with something a little odd to ensure guests are at least a little unsettled about what’s walking down the runway – plastic slides and belt with an exaggerated pocket flap/tiny bag attached to the hip/patch/who knows? – this season, the collection was kind of normal. Of course, normal in Prada terms does not mean boring, far from it! It was still incredibly exciting, but not as challenging and a little more customer-friendly perhaps. Yes, prints were vibrant, checks in particular seem to be Mrs Prada’s favourite for SS17, appearing everywhere from coats, bomber jackets, bra tops, midi skirts, knitted vests and little teeny shorts. Alongside were prints which can only be described as part flowers, part squiggles, part graphic lines in mustard yellow, lime green and light brown, the usual odd, 70s colouring that only Miuccia Prada can put on the catwalk and be praised for. But while the prints were not your usual get up, they came as turtle necks, classic shirts, a pretty flared dress and the amazing PJ trousers and shirt combo, so they were actually really easy to incorporate into wardrobes and daily lives, while super comfortable to wear.

Prada is my spirit animal

The oomph for SS17 came courtesy of marabou and ostrich feathers. They were obviously there as boas, but they lined sleeves, poked out of trouser legs and bra tops, came down skirts, made feet look super fun as they were attached to shoe straps and extra cosy too as fur-lined sandals stomped down the runway for SS17. Most comfortable shoes ever? It’s very likely. They were no plain white feathers either. Baby pink and yellow, navy blue, orange, black and grey versions adorned the garments. It wasn’t over the top, however. Despite the feather to fabric ratio being quite high, and if you add to that all the pearls, beads and other embellishments that made the clothes into pieces of wearable art, plus the plastic belts, shoes and bags, it all made sense and wasn’t costume-y. And that is quite a feat. We bow to you Mrs Prada.

The mini is not short enough

Counteracting all the long sleeves, modest skirts and high necks were the extra short shorts/skirts hybrids. (Or were they pants we could see?) Looking more like slightly bigger bikini bottoms, they strangely did not seem like they exposed too much. Perhaps it’s because they came as twinsets, with a crop bra or a vest top under which a shirt was worn, buttoned up all the way to the top. Again, only Miuccia could juggle all these contrasts and make them look so amazingly good. But, after all, it is a spring summer collection so why not get the pins out.

Words
Barbora Kozusnikova