MFW: Gucci SS17

Love is (still) in the air

Alessandro Michele has become fashion’s favourite boy in only a few seasons. And just when we thought we could not love him more, his SS17 collection blew everyone away. Again. He just keeps getting better and better, his clothes even more embroidered, more ruffled, more voluminous, more over-the-top. Who would have thought that, only a couple of years ago, normcore was the uniform of choice? Now the same editors, celebs, and pretty much everyone, are lusting for a yellow frilly dress with voluminous sleeves and a massive blue bow tied around the neck, or the jellyfish coat/dress that premiered in Milan at Gucci’s SS17 show. That man must be a magician. The rose-tinted glasses with which everyone looks at the new Gucci perhaps inspired the set at Scalo Falini, all pink smoke and a red carpet lined with stars. At the same time, there was something sinister. A sense of infatuation, of slightly dangerous, all-consuming passion was woven into the garments; ‘Cemetery’, one belt spelt out, while a bustier on a tiered organza dress was covered by a giant heart appliqué pierce with a dagger. A model carried a Chinese silk fan, ‘Blind for Love’ embroidered on in gothic letters. Another model wore a knitted cardigan bearing a Jayde Fish illustration of an upside-down monkey, the stabbed heart appearing once more, ‘Loved’ written across the back. It all had a kind of a tarot card, clairvoyant feel. Michele has already been dubbed the Jesus of fashion, why not take the post of the mystic too?

More, more, MORE!

The theatrical, 3D invite requesting our attendance at the SS17 show in Milan was a good indication of the clothes that were to come. Appearing before our eyes were the most sumptuous of brocade silks, expansive ruffles on sleeves and down the side of trousers, one dress almost swallowing a model from head to toe in the flouncy fabric. There was a rainbow tinsel dress (yes, really, and we predict it will have a lot of outings as soon as anyone can get their hands on it), another inspired by traditional Chinese garments, all in pink silk with a pagoda and bonsai tree print. Everything sparkled, pearls were sewn onto trouser and shirt cuffs, hats came broad and Venetian-like, sunglasses were loaded with so many crystals, pearls and other embellishments that they must have made the models’ heads incredibly heavy, let alone the jewels drooping down their ears, even the Marmont Matelassé bag that hangs off everyone’s shoulder came as a maxi. The whole show was over-the-top amazing, a cat’s face hand-embroidered on a blush pink tulle dress, red vinyl bomber jacket and pencil skirt ensemble was teamed up with royal blue, floral embroidered leggings, tigers, dragons and zebras fought for attention with sequin pineapple sleeves, gold and blood-red sequin hoodie followed by a gown lifted straight out of a Baroque painting, rings piled up on each finer à la Michele himself. Not up to layering tons of jewellery, loads of prints, ruffles, bows, hats and other accessories into one look? Gucci SS17 as an answer for that too – just wear one thing head to toe, like the all-denim suit that is surely to be a hit. Maximum impact, maximum fun. A word of warning: Not for any shrinking violets!

Purchase without guilt

Michele’s work is extraordinary, his imagination unbelievable, the handiwork couture-worthy. The prices, of course, unfortunately for some (can I get a loan for my fashion needs, please?), reflect the incredible craftsmanship of Michele and the house of Gucci as a whole. For SS17, however, there is a solution! Well, kind of. The uber-high flatform, which look like sandals with a colourful sock in them from afar, are actually two shoes in one, the flat, printed shoe slides into and gets buckled up in the harness of the outer shoe. Two for a price of one? A bargain, surely! While still at a high price-point, quality does at times command eating plain oats for a month or so, (cooked with tap water, of course!) the vintage Gucci logo jumper is going to be a sell out. Those who miss out will spend hours, if not days, trying to find an original, or a copy, somewhere on eBay, in god knows what country. But that is the charm of Michele’s Gucci. Everyone wants in, everyone is willing to do anything to get a piece of his world. If not in original Gucci, then at least in something vaguely similar. Some of the SS17 pieces carried the phrase ‘Modern Future.’  If this collection is Alessandro Michele’s prophecy of what the planet will become, then  he is on his way to world domination.