Chicago-born make-up artist Alex Byrne knows what’s up and happening in beauty. After over 15 years in the industry, working for magazines, prepping celebrities for their red carpet appearances and being the right hand of designers, helping them to pull their collections together and creating incredible looks for their shows, who better to take us backstage and talk us through the new beauty trends launched during the SS17 shows at NYFW.

Prabal Gurung: Rock Royalty

Tracey Emin and Gloria Steinem were the starting point for Diane Kendal’s makeup design for Prabal Gurung’s. They’re not names that instantly bubble to the surface in the realm of iconic beauties, but Diane elegantly translated their power and feminism into a bold and accessible design. Black Black Chromagraphic Pencil elongated lash lines, graced only with a little Haught Naughty mascara at the outer corners and some last minute lip balm on the lid, all by MAC Cosmetics. Anthony Turner conjured a similar vibe for hair, referring to that poignant New York moment when The Velvet Underground and Nico were rock royalty. Departing from more strict designs of seasons past, Anthony focused on the swagger hair gives when it’s squeaky clean and prepped with a thorough wash of ColorProof Detox Shampoo. He then hand dried (rather than brushed) with a fancy 24K Gold Ceramic hair dryer by Bio Ionic, gave a center part and directed the hair so it fell down onto the face in a 70s curtain across the cheekbones.

DKNY: Cool, Not Glammed

“New minimalism is a daring approach to makeup,” according to beauty star Pat McGrath. A bold dark lip is not the easiest look to wear, but adorned with Pat’s elegant touch and her own brand’s ballsy colours for lips, metallics and glitters, the women at DKNY looked stunning. Eugene Souleiman rocked an inventive contrast in hair textures. Starting with EIMI Shape Me pushed in at the roots for a flat, glossy finish, he then used EIMI Sugar Lift to encourage natural textures with movement at the bottom. Eugene explained that each of the models had slightly different hair, “There’s a thread, but not really a thread… and if there’s a surprise when the girls walk out, it’s more enjoyable to watch.”

Gypsy Sport: Without Bondaries

We’ve relished men and women sharing the runway, but Gypsy Sport hit next level by smashing traditions of gender and style. Laurent Philippon took inspiration from Gypsy Sport’s “circus of individuality and spontaneity,” splashed in Bumble and Bumble Prep and celebrated hair with finger waves, coloured corn rows, spiky mohawks and geometric afro-shapes. Makeup artist Fatima Thomas used a round 20s eye shape as a launching pad for gender fluid designs – adorning men in what is typically seen as women’s makeup. Green, orange and gold tones of MAC Cosmetics’ shadows, pigments and glitters were uniquely arranged on each face.

Carmen Marc Valvo: Doll Parts

Having the show date fall onto September 11th was a pivotal moment for a designer who clearly remembers the events from fifteen years ago. Valvo segued from his traditional sleek structures and opted for the doll – a symbol of innocence, friendship and security. Romero Jenning’s version of the fairy princess brought us back to Twiggy with her painted lashes, created with MAC Cosmetics Blacktrack Gel Liner, False Lashes #4 and finished with metallic highlights above the iris – a mixture of two colors from MAC’s Solar Glow Eyeshdaow Palette that launches next spring. Hair guru Ted Gibson took on the daunting task of using a pin set on twenty models (a notoriously long process) to create fine frizzy results and topped it all off with a bow, emulating imperfect dolly hair.

Club Monaco: Hampton’s Cashmere and Dream Waves

It’s not the first time we’ve seen understatement on a runway in NYFW, but paired with cashmere and silk ensembles the backstage beauty for Club Monaco’s collection was rather enviable. Britain’s own Polly Osmond teamed up with Drew Barrymore’s creation – Flower Beauty – to polish this low maintenance luxurious look with nothing more than Rouge Crème Blush, Highlighter Chubby and some Ultimate Mascara in Brown. This simplicity was matched with Laurent Philippon’s approach, working with the models’ individual hair textures to create “dream waves” that were different on each. He finished with Bumble & Bumble Hairdresser’s Invisible Dry Oil Finishing Spray and said “it creates a cloud of magic on the hair,” adding invisible moisture without weighing it down.

Hood By Air: Wet, Wet, Wet

According to hair designer Amy Farid, “Hood By Air are the mischievous children in this whole fashion world,” and this season the kids broke into the beauty cupboard and conjured up this intentionally awkward look. Amy used Bb.Curl Anti-Humidity Gel-Oil and piled it into the hair for a fully saturated, wet looking result. For makeup, Inge Grognard created a thick, highly visible layer of shine by mixing a cocktail of MAC Cosmetics Shine Mixing Medium and SFX Ice Gel. The clear goo was placed densely across the forehead, cheeks and t-zone, sparking many discussions and waves of mixed opinions throughout fashion week.

Libertine: Rebel Heart

Starting with the designer’s clashing and fearless aesthetic, beauty inspirations burst out from a punk feeling at Libertine. Makeup artist Katie Jane Hughes used Too Cool for School’s High Line Eye Liner and cleverly softened the edges with Egg Cream moisturizer for an instant night out lash line. Kenna Kennor misted in Salty Dog Salt Spray and then sprinkled copious amounts of Haze Styling Powder at the roots, both by Australian brand Evo. Combined with 3D nails, the result was lived in and true to it’s nod to the 70s – DIY glam rock.

Proenza Schouler: Under the Rainbow

Even though the Proenza Schouler collection was bursting with color, craft and wit, when it came to backstage beauty, this show was thoroughly understated. Anthony Turner set his sights on the “little mistakes” that surface in super clean hair. He started with Bumble & Bumble Gentle Shampoo, sent the models outdoors to air dry and then finished with Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil. Inspired by the work of photographer Jackie Nickerson, makeup guru Diane Kendal opted for minimal everything except a painted ear on select models – MAC Cosmetics Chromacake in Primary Yellow – the quiet mark of a couture tribe.