An unpicked approach to smart dressing for Joseph SS17.
Louise Trotter at Joseph has captured the essence of nomadic freedom by using salvaged military fabrics and shirting to create an elegantly upcycled collection. The signature trench coat was redefined in voluminous asymmetrical layers and thick sporty sweaters were sewn into trousers, the sleeves hanging about the waist. As always the tailoring was sharp, but became looser as the collection progressed, more dishevelled as if garments were being re-purposed over time.
Whilst the opening movement of the show was a soothing palette of earth tones – white, khaki and palest gold – there were gradual introductions of bold primary colours via fringing, like the fabric of a cheerleader’s pom-pom, which was used on hemlines in thick wads which made a pleasing swishing noise. Trotter has re-imagined a uniform for SS17, a sporty t-shirt here, a mackintosh there, but never in the places you expect.
For sportswear enthusiasts – of which there are many – Joseph would not necessarily be the go-to brand, but given the increasing popularity of athletic apparel it seems that they too are beginning to adapt. Slightly more luxe than your average gym attire, Joseph’s fitted trackpants and contrast sweaters might not be what you’d actually choose to exercise in, but will go some way towards opening the brand out to a new audience.
India Birgitta Jarvis