Take me to the movies

Amy Powney’s mood board for her Mother of Pearl SS17 collection must have been a joy to look at. Basing her designs on the 1989 film anthology New York Stories, three shorts by Martin Scorsese, Francis Ford Coppola and Woody Allen, the imagery she was inspired by could not have been anything but extraordinary. No wonder, then, that her SS17 offering was utterly brilliant. Taking cues from the flirty artist Paulette, Zoë, an upperclass schoolgirl who makes friends with an Arabian princess, and Sadie, an overprotective, nightgown-wearing granny, Powney’s SS17 girls were all pearls and ruffled hems, vintage floral prints, chains, lame, tweed, jacquard, slingback pumps and frilly boots, complete with big 80s hair and red lip (smudged around the edges as though an intense make out session just took place).

High and low

Of course, it being an 80s-inspired collection, the garments went from ultra short to maxi, from skin tight to relaxed and roomy, from sleeves reaching way past the fingers to trousers right on the edge of just long enough, from frayed hems and tracksuits to tulle skirts. It was a perfect example of mix and match, the contrast yet compatibility between luxury and lounge wear, the look so many street style ‘stars’ attempt to pull off. The white t-shirts trimmed around the neckline with clusters of pearls yet with threads hanging off the sleeves were a particular favourite, as were the track pants with ruffle cuffs, a tweed hoodie and a somewhat sporty top with ‘MOTHER’ written down its sleeve worn under a silky slip and a lace overdress, a string of pearls hugging the hip and the neck. A prim and proper white coat with puffed and pearl-embellished sleeves worn over a white sequin skirt was styled with sport socks. Very upper class lady-lady, but a lady with a little bit of a rebel attitude.

Denim dreaming

SS17 saw Mother of Pearl’s first foray into denim. How apt considering the collection’s 80s vibes and he decade’s infatuation with the blue fabric. A full-denim, all-blue look of a cocoon coat with pearls set into its pleated shoulders and a pair of one of those frilled hem trousers that were a major story of the collection opened the show, suggesting the jean’s key role for Powney’s new season girl. Then came dresses, skirts and loose suits. This was denim for the Upper East Side, finished off with pearl button fastenings at the sides.