For SS17, Eudon Choi paid homage to American photographer Francesca Woodman and her tragic end.
Amongst the colourful, loud and out-there crowds, spectators and designs that are so intertwined with the idea of fashion week, Eudon Choi’s SS17 show was a welcomed and calming palette cleanser, an appreciation of simple colour with the focus mainly shifting to the construction and new shapes. Predominantly grey, white and navy, the garments were inspired by Francesca Goodman’s black and white photographs of the female form, as well as her tragic suicide at the tender age of 22. Choi’s was a collection of poetic contemplation, an exploration of new proportions and a celebration of both, life and death.
Eudon Choi is yet another designer who has successfully made the move from background in menswear to design solely for women. For SS17, he has gone right back to his roots, adapting the skills he has gained while training in menswear for his woman today. As more and more women opt for more comfortable and looser shapes found more often in the guys’ part of stores, this combination of masculine and feminine could not be more appropriate nor more set for success. Crisp shirts came asymmetric, tied here and loosened there with string and pieces of fabric, folded and ruffled, almost like an origami. Excess straps were flailing behind models as they walked down the runway, while sleeve and trouser shapes were exaggerated, dresses looking effortlessly thrown on, fastened with mismatching buttons or somehow held together by a cord. The clothes look incredibly comfortable so that you’d want to lounge in them all day at home, but also smart enough to be worn to the office or jazzed up for the evening (or maybe just use the various drawstrings to alter the shape yourself!) This is the ultimate day to night to home fashion.
Cut it out
The relaxed but super tailored attitude of the clothes is closely related to the work of Woodman whose figures were always blurred or obscured, going about their daily lives while someone was secretly photographing their actions. Although a blotch print which appeared on dresses was a direct reference to a dress Woodman once photographed herself in, much subtler ideas informed the collection. The photographer’s work features a lot of empty spaces, a sense of destruction, as though something is missing, her figures are incomplete somehow. As such, Choi’s SS17 garments come slashed on the arm, down the side of the leg and diagonally, buttons are undone and openings appear with every move. A super sexy surprise came with the flash of leg under voluminous skirts – mid-calf socks held up by a leather suspender.