#ScotlandIsOpen

Opening with a film dedicated to telling stories of Scottish society, with sound bites like “open dialogue” and “values of acceptance”, it was fully geared up to be a show in celebration of Scottish heritage. The references were infininitely more subtle than expected: patterns inspired by Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s paintings and a quietly sexual energy apparently influenced by that of Glaswegian house ravers. Not a tartan kilt to be seen.

Material Girls

Working alongside international textile partners, fabric development is imperative to the Teatum Jones brand, and indeed they didn’t skimp on the selection this season. Lingerie inspired dresses with deep V-necks were constructed in printed silk and delicate black lace, mesh filled the negative space on tight body-conditioning jacquard pieces.

Balancing Act

Although Teatum Jones are making a name for themselves with their maximalist fashion, the real stand out pieces for this show were the more simple ones. White cotton shirts cinched at the waist and with oversized cuffs felt distinctly Japanese, and the patchwork winkle-pickers looked as if Quentin Blake had designed them for a marvellously colourful Roald Dahl character. Key to the success of the collection was the balance between discreet and overt, and this is something Teatum Jones excel at; their clothes are loud and decorative but they always know how not to push too far.