Walking on Eggshells
For their first catwalk show as Cottweiler (under the NewGen Man showcase umbrella), Matthew Dainty and Ben Cottrell’s strewed smashed ceramics over the runway: the “future ruin of a hotel resort”, they called it. An apocalyptic vision certainly, but at first glance – and before consulting the show notes – you would be forgiven for mistaking those broken pots for egg shells; a rather more positive symbol of growth and one that would be particularly appropriate for this burgeoning and ever expanding label. And the backbone of that growth? Always Cottweiler’s take on the mighty tracksuit, which feels more relevant now than ever.
Track and Field
That sportswear came, as it so often does with these two, in translucent whites of the most technical variety: linen was transposed into some breed of futuristic textile that, with its raw texture, changes the very idea of the tracksuit. There were also plenty of rainproof jackets that from a distance seemed simple – familiar in cut and mood – but become richer and more beautiful as they approached you and let you take in their polish and detail. That idea of a ruined resort unfurled as the show continued, becoming wittier and witter as models paced down the runway in ensembles that felt increasingly, well, resort.
Sometimes that resort was a deliciously cool Cottewiler take on the kind of getaway where American retirees hang around in leisure suits going for health treatments, hitting a spinning class and perhaps a brief spell on the exercise bike. Too far? Just look at all the sky blue ensembles that are but a golf-visor and some thick frames away from that Florida geriatric swag. Then there are the spa-day towels tucked into waistbands or being carried by a topless model who resembled a pool boy. Finally, peep the cross-body bags that wouldn’t look out of place strapped round a weary tourist in Disneyland – and I mean that in the best way possible. Roll on summer!