You only need to glance around the crowds of LCM to see that Nazir Mazhar’s instantly recognisable aesthetic is king here. His legendary Box Bully caps (complete with HB pencil) sit on the heads of fashion week’s coolest crews, peeping out over the benches flanking the catwalk. Like fellow LCM stalwart Craig Green, Mazhar is so popular in part because there is a consistency in what he does: a sustained identity that people are drawn to. So, while this season saw some new additions to the Mazhar wardrobe (as well as some new sub-cultural influences), it was a collection only one man could have made.
Tribe of Frog
The most eccentric change of pace was probably the influx of fur pieces, which came in something that resembled a tie-die zebra print: lurid green marbled with black. A half loin cloth in the stuff felt like the garb of some primordial warrior, the sleeveless coat like the costume of a committed psy-trance raver. See what I mean about new sub-cultural influences? Other modifications were flesh exposing cut-outs; Ovals of absence with little purpose but to prove that yes, these eminently well-cast models were fierce enough to pull even the most visually perplexing designs off.
That aside, there was plenty of familiar territory on display here. Operation Desert Storm bucket hats, cargo pants and utility vests in standard issue khaki were part 90s hiphop and part 90s boy band – a combination that worked surprisingly well. Then, of course, there were the essential tracksuits in red, black and green as well as a slew of prints that will keep Mazhar’s army of acolytes happy for the foreseeable future. Oh, and on the feet? Head-stomping moon boots to keep even his most eyebrow raising designs firmly on the ground.