Graduating from the London College of Fashion are the next big things in fashion.
At Wonderland we are always on the look out for the best and brightest young menswear designers. Next Monday (6th June 2016), the London College of Fashion team return for their annual show, presenting their leading menswear designers in this graduating year. The menswear catwalk collections have been directed and styled by Rob Phillips (the LCF Creative Director of Fashion and Design) to form a masterpiece of a show. Featuring the different courses that have the option to explore menswear design, the show will form a cross-disciplinary examination of contemporary menswear and demonstrate the talent that the future of menswear has to look forward to.
Here we chat to three of the most exciting graduates, Joseph Standish, Tsun Cheung Lai and Sam Thompson, about their collections.
Joseph Standish
Course: BA (Hons) Fashion Design and Development
Joseph Standish, BA (Hons) Fashion Design and Development
Tell us a little about yourself?
I am originally from Wolverhampton and I have never told a lie
What was the starting point for this collection?
I think that higher end fashion can be very esoteric and difficult for people to relate to, I tried to react to my personal frustration with the widespread use of industry standard models and represent a wider image of beauty. Creating characters that had bad tattoos, were drinking beer and eating takeaways felt more real, more humanized to me. More so than a couture dress. I draw a lot of inspiration from people, the bloke in the pub or the builder working on your windows. It’s my dad and his mates I’m trying to design for.
What beats are playing in the studio while you’re designing?
I listen to a lot of crappy punk rock, I am a bit of a sucker for some teenage angst. Recently I have had God Damns’ (two piece band from the Black Country) album on a lot and JME’s album Integrity so I guess it’s a bit all over the place.
Your favourite piece from the collection and why?
For each look I have developed a unique character with his own story and persona. My favourite to work on was tony (the guy made from jersey) I had a lot of fun making him and got to do a bit of drawing in the process. I think at this point in my development I really just wanted to see what I could still get considered for catwalk and really challenge people’s ideals of a fashion show.
The trickiest part of the design process?
Discovering what it was I wanted from my designs, I think for a while I was creating garments that felt very safe and commercial in their direction. It didn’t really reflect how I felt about fashion. LCF’s creative direction team were amazing in helping me overcome these restrictions and I’m excited about future possibilities and to see growth in the ideals I feel so passionate about.
Your least and most favourite thing about LC:M?
I wish it could be more encompassing, I really want the opportunity to let everyone see a show or wear the clothes. I think it’s a shame that some of the events are shut off to the “average” public. My favourite thing is that LC:M gives a lot of new designers a chance who are less commercially safe. I personally think that’s really important for the fashion industry and at the end of the day I think a show should be an experience not just a walking clothes rail.
Sum up this season in three words!
Long Live Honest Man
Tsun Cheung Lai
Course: BA (Hons) Bespoke Tailoring
Tsun Cheung Lai, BA (Hons) Bespoke Tailoring; Caroline Klemp, BA (Hons) Cordwainers Footwear: Product Design and Innovation; Joseph Mangan, BA (Hons) Cordwainers Fashion Bags and Accessories: Product Design and Innovation
What was the starting point for this collection?
My work is a mixture of traditional tailoring and contemporary menswear. I wanted to challenge the traditional concept of bespoke tailoring by exploring new and surprising techniques and by using untraditional fabric. I also used sail making techniques in my work.
What beats are playing in the studio while you’re designing?
Techno and Jazz.
Your favourite piece from the collection and why?
My first tailored jacket made from ripstop, which is used to make kites for kitesurfing and it is not the easiest material to make a traditional jacket out of so I had to create new techniques to make it easier.
The trickiest part of the design process?
I tend to have new ideas every single day so whilst I am making the garment, it is very hard to stick with one final design and I always want to make it better. But because of time, I eventually make a decision!
Your least and most favourite thing about LC:M?
I love the energy and the atmosphere! I wish I could go to every show.
Sum up this season in three words!
New bold and exciting
Sam Thompson
Course: BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Menswear
Sam Thompson, BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Menswear; Emma Han, BA (Hons) Fashion Textiles: Embroidery; George Oxby, BA (Hons) Fashion Sportswear
Tell us a little about yourself?
I didn’t really decide I wanted to be in fashion until super late. I was actually studying maths, history and philosophy for A-level, but I realised I was having more fun styling what I was wearing to my classes then actually studying in them. It was only when I started studying fashion that I realised how much scope there was to be explored, especially in menswear.
What was the starting point for this collection?
It was really more of a visual, than a conceptual starting point. I kept noticing how people's attitudes were reflected in how they wore their clothes. The way that they were standing and the position of their bodies affected the shape of the garment. As a designer you often think like this – of conforming and fitting the garment to the body, but I decided that it would be interesting to imbue the clothes with a pre-defined attitude that the bodies wearing them would then have to conform to.
What beats are playing in the studio while you’re designing?
I’m really into the new Lukas Graham album mixed in with DJ Vlads hardvapour mix when I need to get things done. I also love listening to the dulcet tones of Lou Stoppard interviewing people on SHOWstudio.
Your favourite piece from the collection and why
I love the Oversized MA-1 bomber jacket. It was by far the hardest to pattern cut and make but it just came out perfect and really coveys the concept of the collection as a whole.
The trickiest part of the design process?
Starting. Everything can look amazing in your head, but when you actually start putting stuff down on paper you realise how much of what you thought looked good really doesn’t!!
Your least and most favourite thing about LC:M?
I always love the MAN show, it’s so cool when you see designers really pushing themselves to create something new. I love it when I see something where I'm like 'how the hell did you do that??; And then try to figure out how they did it. What's sad is when you see those same designers having to conform to the commercial realities of the industry three seasons later.
Sum up this season in three words!
Look at me!!!!
Photographer: James Rees
Creative Direction: Rob Phillips
Hair: Ezana Ové
Beauty: Kirsty Gaston
Words: Annabel Lunnon