Jason Wu took on the adage, “sex sells” for AW16, but of course in typical Wu fashion, it was done artfully subtly.
While some designers enjoy the shock factor of perpetual reinvention, others prefer to do a single thing very well. Jason Wu is a designer in the latter category, his collections always best described as sophisticated, ladylike. He never leaves loose ends (or bows, or ribbons) – and yet, within the tidy parameters he has made for his brand, he surprises us by somehow getting better every time.
Dancing by Design
For a fall collection, filled with layers and long sleeves, a sense of movement ran throughout: long, rippling organza bows, and wispy tufts of feathers like undersea anemones. Printed flowers were animated by the natural shifting of pleated sheers over the body, while even the plaid design on heavy wool coat seemed to rustle, with crisscrossed lines out of whispering contrast mohair.
Second-Glance Sex Appeal
Although Wu isn’t a particularly “sexy” brand – at least not in the sense of Versace, for instance, or even Altuzarra – an erogenous element turned up through the collection, with the spine as a focal point. From dresses to coats, the backs of garments were tied with a neat – almost architectural – grosgrain bow, many with a sheer or cut-out back. See-through lace bottoms continued the peekaboo theme – sometimes layered, like a lace skirt over a lace slip. Various looks incorporated a detachable fur shrug, resting on the shoulders, accentuating the sensual femininity of the naked clavicle with a stark, horizontal ribbon. Overall, sex appeal for the true lady.
Words: R.J. Hernandez