We round up the best bits from Copenhagen Fashion Week AW16.
No one Scan-do-it better…
Sorry. Each season, hipsters worldwide can be heard rejoicing at the unveiling of new garms from the Scandinavian leaders in fashion. Copenhagen fashion week has just wrapped, and it’s time to take a look back and see what amazing things we can expect to trickle into our ever evolving wardrobes late ’16.
It’s all about comfort, relaxed everything with a splash of tailoring that make these collections fit for both the office and dinner with the in-laws. Trust, they know what they’re doing. These guys can make the un-cool cool, and we’ve got a feeling you’re going to want all of the things.
Having spoken with Tonsure in a 60 second whirlwind interview, Malte Flagstad had us waiting for something special. Explaining he was “inspired by ordinary people” and “the floors of eccentric homes”, this AW16 offering didn’t disappoint as pinstripe and precision detailing made its way down the catwalk.
The collection developed from elongating vertical stripe on box cut jackets and shirts, loosened trousers with upturned hems and clashing print, to waves of pastel blues and camel on a base of black and grey. Expect wide cut silhouettes, done up top buttons and suede, with off-cuts elegantly deconstructed and re-worked into new and enticing shapes.
The former Maison Martin Margiela designer has pushed the boundaries of layering, adding intimately cut patterns under sharp pressed shirts and monotoned sweats – even shirts over shirts are on the cards. Having looked at carpets and rugs laid on top of one another, it’s clear to see the designer’s vision throughout each piece. Layering is key.
A walkway of puppets controlled by musicians, references to “the human brain looking like a walnut” and a collection of mis-matched wonderment – it’s no wonder that Vibskor’s AW16 collection is one on everyones lips.
Starting out with the comfiest of oversized outwear, emblazoned with horizontal pinstripe on a monochrome palette, the collection continued to evolve through unusual shapes and pattern cuts. The king of geometry showed an array of linear panelling in bold black and white, polka dots and stripe, dropped yokes on shirts and ballooning sleeves paired with knee skimming circle skirts.
Then came the colour. Splashes of red, blue, orange.. spliced in even more graphical prints and typographic finishes. To round up? The tone relaxed, with wools in khaki and peach, dressing gown jackets and calf swinging culottes. A miss-match, yes. But a great one. It’s bold. It’s graphic. It’s exciting. You’ll want it all.
Barbara í Gongini
Lets just say, Gongini shook things up. With black on black on black, the designer made way for ultra-cool hipster meets gangster meets biker. Sounds pretty magical right? It is.
Think monochrome detailing in typography print, tees adorned with letters, trousers with script down the leg. Then think black, and more black. Layered to perfection in contrasting textures of leather and knit, topped off with pixie hats like hippies gone rouge.
Flashes of skin peeked through open knees – at the back, not the front – and wide knit jumpers, all enveloped in drapes of expertly cut shirts, cowl necks and fur.
Having established in 2005, the Nordic designer has developed a signature androgynous style, and we think it’s here for the long haul. These are clothes that can be worn anywhere, any way.
Looking for womenswear with a utilitarian twist? Dalsjø’s your woman. Known for her bold, graphic prints, vertical stripe has taken a new lease of life amongst furs and pleat for AW16. This is print work gone 3D.
Appliquéd square pockets with jewelled embellishments on quilted puffers… This collection is nothing less than eye-catching. Dalsjø has taken the classics and re-worked them with expert precision, loosely tailored, draping seamlessly across the body. Over the shoulder arrangements create movement and fluidity throughout each piece, but the solid, bold colours of blue, white, grey and rust continue to show face for a lust-worthy palette.
Texture is key with Dalsjø, velvet flares under box cut tops make for exciting wears. Watch out for this one, the ability to juxtapose fluidity and sharpness means she’s on to a winner.
Mark Kenly Domino Tan
Lets get girly. From a designer like Tan, who, at only 12 years old designed a dress for the former Princess of Denmark, one can only expect great things. This is a designer who understands the female figure, who designs for it, who cares for it.
Think plunging necklines of silks and pussybows, skimpy stilettos and billowing blouses. Nipped in waists experiment with the silhouette, when paired with flared trousers and oversized shirts, the coveted hourglass is back with Tan, and it’s all about the curve.
The hemlines have fallen to a floor teasing length and the fabrics have stepped up their elegance. Shoulders adorned with embellished florals add an even more feminine touch, yet there are obvious gothic overtones with lots of black and heavy makeup. Exaggerated eyelashes and slick, forehead hugging fringes add stark contrast to the romanticism of this collection, perhaps to show that every woman has a powerful side? She knows what she wants, and she’s getting it in style.
Known for his conceptual designs, Nybro pushes the boundaries to the furthest edge with pattern cutting and materials. The collection is a dark and stormy whirlwind of madness.
From lots of black and bashed up metallic, it grows through a story of theatrical references, focusing on a tale of mankind and universal voyage.
Heavy red ‘bruised’ eye makeup and pig tail plaits salute the twisted themes, along with enclosed hoods and shreds of plastics in bright red.
There’s a mixture of heavy, over the top draping, exposed zips and black box headpieces with lighter than air, almost transparent dresses worn with no shoes. Think Red Riding Hood gone dark and you’re on the right lines.
So, it looks like velvet is making a serious comeback for AW16 and that is a wonderful thing. A full, head to toe, navy suit made an appearance and now everyone is going to want it. It will happen.
This collection from Lovechild 1979 is a refreshing change to the Scandi norm. It’s an era clash – a 70s colour palette of camel, blue and orange, mixed with a nod to the 90s with moon prints and grunge cuts. It’s not about socks and sandals this season, it’s socks and loafers. Patent loafers.
Lead by creative director Anne-Dorthe Larsen, pattern cutting has taken a step up with tear drop cut outs on acid green check, layered under pinafores and draped dresses. Although predominantly feminine, Larsen’s work has a slight androgynous undertone when it comes to silhouette. Think long line hems, wide leg trousers and high, grey knit socks. This is geek chic done well. This is geek chic Clueless style.
Words: Vicki Chagger
Photography: Kai Rocha