Wonderland.

PFW: HAIDER ACKERMANN AW16

All out luxe translated into sensitivity for Haider Ackermann AW16.

Emotions

Ackermann is not one to stray too far from the classic broody, yearning romanticism that he is so well known for: and why should he? His work is at once the personification of the drawling, dark streets of Paris, and a look at the softer side of the male bravado: from rock n roll legend, to baseball guy. Ackermann, season on season injects beauty, and thoughtfulness — whether joyful or sombre — into the menswear psyche, each time offering a more sensitive way to dress.

Skill Bill

This season was certainly of the moodier ilk — it’s no wonder, with the state of the world around us — and palettes of all black, olive, or twisted monochrome houndstooth ran throughout. Long Chesterfield coats flowed open in olive wool or spangled black and gold, while tailored skinnier-fit trousers in silver and black jacquards, or gloriously buttery leathers, were a further demonstration of the designer’s “no-fuss” design abilities, with nothing looking out of place even slightly — whether a knee length panne velvet jacket, or a torso exposing jacket-ish thing — everything remains within the HA limits. And those are limits of beauty, luxury, and vulnerability.

He wore Blue Velvet

A note on velvet: why is it pitted as a polarising fabric? It’s all a lie. Especially velvet of the Haider Ackermann ranks. Standout pieces were the electric blue three piece velvet suit, or the super cool baseball jacket in the same. They added a kind of fractious feeling to the otherwise earthy offering, appealing to perhaps a younger customer. It was all mournful and beautiful at once, screaming out to be touched as is always the case with Haider.

Words: Tom Rasmussen

PFW: HAIDER ACKERMANN AW16

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