Ackermann is not one to stray too far from the classic broody, yearning romanticism that he is so well known for: and why should he? His work is at once the personification of the drawling, dark streets of Paris, and a look at the softer side of the male bravado: from rock n roll legend, to baseball guy. Ackermann, season on season injects beauty, and thoughtfulness — whether joyful or sombre — into the menswear psyche, each time offering a more sensitive way to dress.
This season was certainly of the moodier ilk — it’s no wonder, with the state of the world around us — and palettes of all black, olive, or twisted monochrome houndstooth ran throughout. Long Chesterfield coats flowed open in olive wool or spangled black and gold, while tailored skinnier-fit trousers in silver and black jacquards, or gloriously buttery leathers, were a further demonstration of the designer’s “no-fuss” design abilities, with nothing looking out of place even slightly — whether a knee length panne velvet jacket, or a torso exposing jacket-ish thing — everything remains within the HA limits. And those are limits of beauty, luxury, and vulnerability.
He wore Blue Velvet
A note on velvet: why is it pitted as a polarising fabric? It’s all a lie. Especially velvet of the Haider Ackermann ranks. Standout pieces were the electric blue three piece velvet suit, or the super cool baseball jacket in the same. They added a kind of fractious feeling to the otherwise earthy offering, appealing to perhaps a younger customer. It was all mournful and beautiful at once, screaming out to be touched as is always the case with Haider.