The Traditionally Innovative
You Must Create celebrated it’s 20th anniversary with their AW16 collection at LC:M and it would be fair to say that in that time they’ve garnered a strong reputation for low-concept, high-style clothing that people simply want to wear: you don’t necessarily expect directional pyrotechnics at their shows. Having said that, their British Folk inspired, heritage-with-a-twist presentation was a strong one certainly not lacking in design flair and even recalling some of Japan’s new wave of workwear supremos like Daiki Suzuki of Engineered Garments or Hiroki Nakamura of Visvim.
Full of greys and blacks, there was something of the Amish about the clothes and styling (those brimmed hats probably have something to do with it). Flannel ponchos and patchwork cardigans with baggy woolen pants looked and felt, you would imagine, broken-in and well patinated, as if worn on some dusty, Depression-era farmland – in the best way possible. Elsewhere, there were Boho musician vibes aplenty in the form of mop-top boys in leather jackets, wide necked knits, and degage skinny scarves.
J.W. Anderson and Y.M.C. would appear to be diametrically opposed, but the work Anderson (among others) has done to help mix things up on the catwalk does impact more traditional-leaning brands. As such, there were crop-haired women walking the runway at YMC in heavy knits and leather skirts: the wonderfully modern counterparts to these chic, vagabond men of yesteryear.