AW16 proves that Margaret Howell may not be directional, but sure can cut a jacket.

Old Dog, Old Tricks

Margaret Howell has been producing indisputably tasteful menswear for well over thirty years and if you think she’s gonna stop now then, well, you will be dissapointed. That means little in the way of surprising innovation for AW16, but plenty in the way of, quite simply, lovely clothes. That could be a high-waisted, fuller trouser styled with chunky chelsea boots or a flannel suit cut with enviable skill: a cut that is neither sculpted nor baggy, but rather hangs in an almost casual way – perfect, you imagine, for all the semi-formal gallery openings that Howell’s customers must attend.

A Touch of Flair 

It was mostly a collection in those classic menswear colours of navy, grey and black, though colour did come through in a 70s-done-well mustard mockneck, a raffish scarf here and there or a splash of Fair Isle. Double breasted blazers added a touch of Michael Caine’s Swinging London with their six, high buttons and short peak lapels.

Well Worn, Worn Well

Outwear to last a lifetime is a Howell special, and there was no shortage of that here with a snow-white duffle coat proving a crispy update on an iconic style and softly constructed navy woolen macs looking like an excellent update on grandfather-wear. She may not change much, but the monochrome looks Howell put forward seemed as crisp and as modern as you could hope for within the guidelines of traditional cut and fabrication.