Marjan Pejoski, one of London’s most extreme graphic heavy, OTT, street-inflected designers pushed things to the limit and beyond at KTZ. The mythical notion of boyhood, that eternal touchstone for a huge breadth of designers – see Mad About The Boy, the new exhibition at LCF’s gallery space – was a source of inspiration for AW16, surely one of Pejoski’s less nu-gothic collections thus far.
What could be more emblematic of youth than sport and athleticism? Well, neither of these influences were in short supply on Sunday, with baseball stitching in its exaggerated form being thrown on anything and everything, from team jackets to shirts. Then there were the hockey masks which were intimidating enough to give me vaguely Friday 13th vibes, as well as boxing inspired shoes and boots and, occasionally, even a baseball bat carried as accessory,
More Is Less
Minimalism is never something you would associate with KTZ, in design or presentation. And, sure enough, the sheer number of looks were extraordinary, especially given that models were sporadically sent down the catwalk side by side, two at a time. From the vivid palate of reds and whites, to the saturation of embellishments and prints on the clothes, this was a collection designed to overwhelm in its drama and shock value – for better or for worse.