“A collection to meet, hang out and then end up in bed together.” Katie Eary ticked all the boxes for AW16.
Stripes and swirls
Of course with Eary, it’s all about the prints, that’s just the way it is. For AW16 we were treated to oversized, spaced out paisley, oversized geometric shapes whose edges never quite met and some almost cute, kinda creepy bug-eyed fish. It wouldn’t be Katie Eary show without clashes and colours to covet.
Eary looked back to the 70s for AW16 but of course, to pin point one style icon wouldn’t have been enough. Taking all the glamour of Bowie (royal blue velvet YES), the uncomfortable bizarreness of Lou Reed (odd fitting geometrics) and the wild energy of Iggy Pop (pure colour everywhere), she rolled them all into one, along with those who adored them. Nico’s eyelashes even got a look in.
With the rockstar influence this season, it was in a way subtler. AW16 was more about an attitude than putting across an image. Sure the prints were loud and the colours were rich but this is an entirely wearable collection even for the quieter dressers. Eary has said everything for you on your behalf in a look, oozing cool.
We caught up with Eary to ask her about the collection…
Who’s the ultimate pin up for AW16?
This season it’s Iggy POP!
What was the starting point on your mood board?
I’ve been attracted to a period of time in the early 70s when all manner of new creative forces were cross pollinating. Inspired by ‘The Sacred Triangle’ documentary, directed by Alec Lindsell. Bowie, Iggy & Lou 1971-1973. Based on the influences artists Lou Reed and Iggy Pop had on David Bowie and how Bowie had in-turn been fundamental in the nurture of their 70s careers. I started looking at who was shagging who, who stole moves from who, I have been completely transfixed on it all.
Where is the ideal time and place for the collection to be worn?
When wanting to impress the girl/guy your into. Sexy clothing for sexy people. I’ve created a collection to meet, hang out and then end up in bed together.
What’s in the details?
Evolved print and placement – working on my strongest skill, and making it stronger. My favourite details are the silk embroidered fish on the mohair ombre knit pieces.
Are we going to be treated to any hair and make up surprises?
No. Not this time… hahaha.
Last season was all about the teenager, who’s under inspection this season?
This time, I’m looking the other way, This is about the rockstar, not the kid trying to be him. SS16 was all in deliciously E number colours, what’s been your favourite shade for AW16? Shades of aubergine, coal and flesh.
Are we going to have any cute cartoon friends again this season?
No not this time. I’ve developed a more ‘finished’ print this season, something I intend to keep working on and get better and better at it.
What’s your favourite piece from the collection?
The ‘zigzag snake’ silk dressing gown. To be worn as a dressing gown. And pj’s, but to be worn as pj’s.
What’s been on the speakers in the studio?
Stooges, Nico, Velvet Underground, Marvin Gaye, Pink Floyd, and Brian Jonestown Massacre.