Cape and Tights
James Long, a NEWGEN darling, has fast become an important fixture on London’s busy menswear calendar. This season his collection was in honour of the “local heroes…the real creatives of London,” and there was certainly a touch of the hero (though a playful, comic book one) about the pieces and styling on display. For example, a green tech-windbreaker jacket had a military rank badge stitched on it – but that masculine warmonger element was smartly undercut as this emblem was layered over with cartooney patches and a Loony Tunes declarations reading, “Oh Boy!”.
A number of camo looks were also subverted through their spray-painted look and the way the boys walked down the runway with glitter round their temples – Bowie-esque, strangely enough. Then there were the boots: multicoloured, space age cowboy affairs with trousers tucked in them (like some 2-bit 1950s superhero). Velour-looking track pants, meanwhile, came with multistripe-patch braiding down the side.
Lurid fun, perhaps, was the key takeaway from this show – best embodied by a glittery blue sequin top. Having said that, there were one or two pieces of casual and considered outwear to balance out all the clubland madness. In particular, a fuzzy blouson had wonderfully understated appeal and a navy sheepskin coat was a fine update on a Del Boy classic. Can we wear rainbow wellies with Item m6 socks to the club? We’re going to anyway.