Restriction but with loose shapes, no-one other than Craig Green could pull off opposites so beautifully.
It’s hard to put into words Craig Green’s expert combination of restriction and loose shapes. Pyjama stripes on matching silhouettes were cut up by elasticated waists and collars were high and tightened with belts. Even arms were belted as if with blood pressure cuffs above the elbow. Cut outs appeared, skin rising to the surface like an air bubble underwater but they were surrounded with the threat of countless button fastenings all around. See, it’s hard to put into words. You don’t really realise how clever Green is until you try.
Done by anyone else, faces peeking out and nothing else would probably be humorous and ever so slightly bizarre. Instead of seeming claustrophobic, Green’s offerings in khaki and pale sandy tones felt protective. It was hardly all cuddles and comfort, with the pieces coming in what appeared to be waxed canvas but that’s Green’s genius, taking the harsh and turning it into armour.
Accessories came in the form of bags laced with fabric strips as wide as your fingers, flowing to the floor. Impractical but gloriously dramatic. This was matched on Green’s other leather pieces, the first he’s ever made but you’d never guess. Squishy, buttery brown, moss greens and harsh patent black, Green delved into leathers head first.
Photographer: Chris Yates