All Black Everything

Much like last season, nigh on every piece shown for AW16 was black. From cottons, to leathers, linens to jersey, it was texture that became Nasir Mazhar’s colour for the colder months. Bombers and track pants were puckered tightly in repeats, while waxy gore-tex was puffed at the biceps and forearms, and bound with ribbon at natural joints — imagine if Velázques painted London’s street wearing youth. Kind of. Signature hats, and the new pencil-wielding buckets, were black and brand-less too — all a rather far cry from the hi-brand Nasir that exploded on to the scene a while back. But the all black thing is commercially clever — customers don’t have to be concerned with the next colour palette or branding bands, but instead the colourless feel makes each collection mixable, trendless, and essentially layerable with seasons to come, and seasons past. Seeing as Nas is the definition of a cult brand, this continuity will perhaps sustain his band of devotees a little while longer.

Matrix x Mad Max

Cyberpunk met desert-warrior in cut and composition. Boys and girls were hoisted into padded armoury which was strapped about the body, contorting the lines of the puffa-panelled long fitted coats — some sleeveless, some sleeve-full. Huge head-dresses constructed of sweater sleeves and black perspex served to distort and hide the face, while a kind of shoulder-to-face bullet proof accessory climbed up the side of one particularly muscular body. New Rock boots clanked their way across the runway in true Furiosa style (finally they’re back), and one particularly clever look took the business suit — waistcoat and briefcase included — and subverted it into super-street by use of thick, scratchy polyester.

Let me see that tho-o-ong

It was refreshing to see the über cool Nasir be a little more playful in his designs. The standout piece was the cheese-wire-thin strappy halter-neck leotards that exposed as much flesh as they covered. These criss-crossed the body like uneven fishnets, and eventually wound up south in a teeny tiny thong. Modelled by both the boys and the girls, with super low slung pants to expose bum cleavage (thank you Sibling), the thong vibes were enough to have Sisqo making a come back. It would be lazy to say that there was not much change from last season. Yes, the pieces were based around the same aesthetic, but simultaneously Mazhar provided a more flamboyant, yet more skilful, collection that is sure to satisfy the cult of Nas, and his many other fans everywhere.