Paul and Joe went all Miami Vice on us for SS16.
The eighties is back – so we hear. Though whether that’s a good thing is another matter. Either way, Paul and Joe took to 80s Miami for their S/S16 collection riffing on, amongst other things, Miami Vice, Magnum P.I. and, of course, Scarface. Yep, Brian De Palma’s 1983, blood-splattered take on the American Dream has always been a touchstone in Hip-Hop, but not quite so often as a high-fashion influence. Paul and Joe, though, saturate their designs this season with the pastel shades and palm leaves so familiar from that movie.
A pale blue suit, for example, worn over a camp-collar, palm-print shirt has Tony Montana written all over it – though the cut is more elegant and the shirt collar not so offensively sprawled over the lapels. The same print found itself on skimpy swimwear (very Miami Beach starlet), a long dress with a plunging neckline – for showing off that coke-white, Michelle Pfeiffer complexion – and a number of other deliciously excessive pieces.
Push it to the Limit
It wasn’t all pastel-pastiche though. There were metallic bombers with matching gathered-hem trousers which would slide seamlessly into the 2015 streetwear-luxe aesthetic; a black shawl lapel tuxedo with some bejewled detailing that exuded evening-wear chic, and a little sequined number that had a nice touch of Saint Laurent rebelliousness to it. Admittedly, there were also graphic t shirts that pushed home the Miami vibe with little subtlety, but subtlety was never the 80s’ strong suit anyway, so it’s only right that this collection wasn’t either.
Words: Benji Walters