Wonderland.

PFW: CHANEL SS16

BA move over, Chanel’s Airline has arrived and it’s the most fashionable way to fly.

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First Class

Karl invited us to fly with Double C airlines this SS16, and it was anything but coach. This is a skill Lagerfeld has in incomparable measure – an ability to make even the most drastically mundane situations skyrocket to 32,000 feet of pure Chanel pleasure. The idiosyncracies of the idyllic airport lounge were captured to the letter, and for a house of more rookie status it would be a worry that form would overshadow content – but not KL, never KL. The moment Edie Campbell stepped out with her rolling luggage and pastel-y pant suit, the whole world was in lift off. For the attraction of Chanel is, and always has been, this ability to buy into a world created for their wearers – much like many of the big brands. But this is a slice of pie only available to the financially elite – the money spent on this spectacle alone is really quite overwhelming, and although this world is alluring – it’s also one of vicious capitalism which brings with it very little beyond looking the part. There is no social awareness, even in Chanel’s previous apparently more political shows (which missed the mark to say the least), but it’s a lot to ask of a man who’s cat has more Twitter followers than Pussy Riot, right?

Rolling in the Chic

Accessories are the flotation device of a brand like Chanel, whose price-point is up in the clouds – and there were no holds barred here. Rolling quilted luggage, stiff-peaked snap-backs, light up platform sandals and those aviation visor-cum-mirrored-sleep-mask glasses will fly off the shelves. Accessories were heavily themed, yet cleverly stand alone – obviously the offering works sans airport – but with so much major designer retail moving to the world’s most fabulous terminals, Chanel’s SS16 collection is the ultimate in destination shopping – pre and post security.

Prints pour le Printemps

Double breasted tweeds, crystal covered jackets and PVC space heels were standout. But in a collection of about 100 looks, the prints and patterns were the most memorable. Flowing chiffon tier skirt dresses were covered in yellow or blue airport screen letters, while cartoon planes in reds or whites were woven into fine knit tracksuits. A high shine pink silk, which looked like babydoll plastic, formed Victorian inspired super sweet dresses;  while super-bright floral ribbons atop white backgrounds gave structural lines to sweet, simple garments. Next Spring there’s just one way to fly. Chocks away.

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Words: Tom Rasmussen

PFW: CHANEL SS16

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