Want the Saint Laurent look? No sleep for a week and a root around in your younger siblings dressing up box and your mum’s 90s wardrobe.
Roll Up, Roll Up!
Ultimately Hedi Slimane’s SS16 collection for Saint Laurent will sell. Under his leadership, the iconic label has become the beacon for everything Rocky and Rolly – and the house looks set to stay on this course. From studded or floral black wellies, filled with stick thin legs, to metallic slips and camo jackets – next year’s festival goer has a wardrobe well planned. And still, seasons on, it’s not really about the clothes. For the SL girl can pull off anything (provided a nipple is set to slip at any time, and she hasn’t slept for a week) – she wears a ball gown like it’s a jean short – one that she probably stole. The genius is not the clothes at all – they are cool, and badass, but ultimately thrift-able – but it’s Sliamane’s ability to stick those two words on a literal poop and shift it at nifty £800. It is incredibly clever, and deeply fascinating – and indeed fashion forward – but clothes-wise it is absolutely nothing new.
Fuck you Mom
The clothes do, however, wholly embody an attitude. It’s teen angst amplified, and it is really appealing. From huge denim coats, leopard strapless dresses, ultra-oversized evening jackets, and those spaghetti strap kitten sandals (think Vicky Beckham circa solo career) that create the ultimate in cool and unfriendly. Dress straps have fallen down, and tees have been tugged at the neck, while your friend has rolled out of the tent naked and thrown on knickers and a lace dress ready for yet another two day party. Sounds like fun! Liquid silks beneath battered leathers – this is noughties Kate at her best.
It is obvious to talk about weight and fashion – and even now, in 2015, there isn’t a single well followed runway show out there is promoting body equality. The extra problematic layer added to the mix with Saint Laurent is that this brand is all about the lifestyle – it’s all about getting into the cool club. But in order to be a card carrying member do you have to be barely there? The models are beautiful of course – and this is not at all about body shaming women who are naturally very thin – but Slimane’s designs offer no other option. Dresses are purposely designed to highlight visible rib-cages and jutting collar bones. The attitude proffered requests lack of sleep and food, and its replacement with cigarettes and cocktails. With such a youthful following it feels as though a more diverse casting (in many senses) would send a way more inclusive (potentially more sellable) message.
Photographer: Thurstan Redding
Words: Tom Rasmussen