Julien David set seaside stripes against playful prints.
Work It Out
A collection heavily centred upon exploring new dimensions of workwear, long dresses and worker jackets – in denims and papery fabricx – underpinned the SS16 offering from Julien David. Set in the corridors of the Ecole Nationale Superieure des Beaux-Arts (think Courtauld, but more demure), the cowhide fringed leather stomper sandals in blues, blacks and whites – teamed with these crinkly skirts, coats and bustiers – made for a rather satisfyingly jarring moment on Friday’s Paris schedule. Girls had lip rings, or pink hair, and attitudes were awkward and apathetic – amplifying the late-teen vibes offered by the aesthetic.
There were beautiful fine-knit ribbed tennis dresses, which flipped out at the hip while remaining tight at the body. These were in baby blue and white – but detailed with leather collars and orangey brass zips. Continuing to update the tennis players closet, tiny little pleat skirts – still in these crisp pastel-y hues – were cut roughly and unevenly at the hem, with giant hips which jutted out altering the silhouette entirely. Think Victorian style dress Paniers – unexpectedly youthful and really rather wearable.
Dotted through the collection were feature prints. Sometimes sunflowers, sometimes the Fleur-de-lys, and sometimes an unrecognisable repeat printed face. These were lovely in them self – and worked as separates – but added a slightly confused moment to a collection which felt more focused on simplicity and structure.
Photographer: Thurstan Redding
Words: Tom Rasmussen