Paris’ most hyped brand wowed editors with another round of awkwardly desirable pieces.
Vetements kicked off their show in Paris with Gosha Rubchinskiy himself walking down the runway in a yellow DHL (yes, as in the delivery company) t shirt and a boxy as fuck black shirt. It would be hard to find a more fitting emblem for the Paris based design collective: Rubchinskiy is possibly the ultimate purveyor of ironic ugly-cool and his very humble looking appearance on the Vetements’ catwalk cements their status as the fashion insider’s brand – whether you recognised Gosha and whether you can spot Vetements’ diaper-patch denim in the show queues at PFW are both sides of the same Tumblr obsessed coin.
The Beauty of Ugly
But what will we be seeing next year on those Vetements-loving editors? Pagoda shouldered, boxy cut tailored pieces in lime green, perhaps? Or maybe fusty argyle sweaters layered under an inelegant grey suit? Greasy spoon tablecloth dresses? Then there were the trousers with cargo-pockets that split in half above the knee to become flapping, skirt like creations. All very bad haircut, so-uncool-it’s-insanely-covetable type stuff.
For the guys – though much of the collection was pretty much genderless – there were Dickies-style work shirts blown up to supremely oversized proportions and presented in luminous hazard-orange and safety-suit blue. Other pieces felt specially-catered for the Rap-Fashion cognoscenti; hoodies and sweatshirts branded down the sleeves or scrawled across with memorable messages such as “coming soon” are sure to prove cat-nip for hot-young-things wanting to catch the attention of street-style photographers. Perfectly pitched, underground-flavoured awkwardness was everything at Vetements. And no one is immune to its charms.
Words: Benji Walters