A collaboration with Kate McGwire leant towards the melancholic at Ann Demeulemeester for SS16.
Demeulemeester is undoubtably cult – with a central palette of black for some thirty years – the brand is dedicated to clothing the now fashion savvy once goth kids of the past. It is always sexual, always beautiful, and always well considered. Silks on silks create ghost like figures in flowing panels subtly layered via floor length skirts and blouses. A cigarette pant in butter-soft leather maintains the beating heart of the offering, while laser sharp suit jackets continue to add that unstoppable power shared by the Demeulemeester wearer word-wide. There is nothing unexpected or out of the ordinary here, however the brand still retains its luster, even under its relatively new Artistic Director Sebastien Meunier.
Venus in Heels
Sheer lurex bodies, tie up waistcoats, bullet-lined leather gilets in white and black, and dagger-sharp heel-cum-boots brought the sadomasochism vibe to fore. Each look was teamed with a body-harness or a square breast plate, all of which culminated in a neck elongating choker. This sexual power was palpable, and models apathetically stomped through the giant space with a look of total control. Provided all were consenting, this was anyone’s game.
The garments were punctuated throughout with brights of yellow, green and white – in jacket sleeves, kimono-esque outerwear, or full length dresses – all of the print and the patterning felt like distorted animal skin burnished onto silks. Raven feathers were dotted here and there, while featherless quills were pushed through stiff leathers to make a kind of armour like choker or halter-top. These features were in collaboration with artist Kate McGwire – and added something rather melancholic to the collection: a bird no longer in flight perhaps? Visually beautiful, metaphorically a little reductive.
Words: Tom Rasmussen