Wonderland.

MFW: EMPORIO ARMANI SS16

It was blushed and breezy tailoring for the coast-hopping set at Emporio Armani.

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Cool to Warm

Tailored elegance being the eternal watchwords for Giorgio Armani, even for his youthful diffusion line Emporio, it was very much business as usual for the iconic designer this time in Milan. Things began in cool, gunmetal shades of grey cut into double breasted coats with matching pleated-but-slim trousers as well as into a nice peak lapelled number tastefully adorned with isolated paisley swirls.

Coast-side Cutey

Things warmed up colour-wise as the collection moved into rusty copper tones (little asymmetrically fronted jackets) and then into feminine pinks and roses: super textured, long-cut tailored pieces were a standout while a printed pink suit with matching neck-scarf was cutesy but charming. There were no shortage of thoughtfully cut dresses with a breezy, costal sway to them either.

King of Cutting

The surest sign that this was a collection for those in warmer climes was the omnipresence of tailored Bermuda shorts in any number of iterations; sometimes placed under blazers and sometimes blurring the line between short and skirt, they came with swishing pleats but were also presented in closer more understated cuts in wonderfully tactile fabrics. There weren’t any surprises this time, then, from the man who has made beautiful and flattering clothes his bread and butter for over forty years – and perhaps that’s no bad thing.

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Words: Benji Walters