Wonderland.

NYFW: ALTUZARRA SS16

Joseph Altuzarra went back to his roots for a Spanish inspired SS16 collection.

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Going back to my roots

32 year old Joseph Altuzarra went back to the North of Spain for this collection and delved into his Basque family history – the result? Earthy colours with a hint of fire, classic Spanish espadrilles sexed up with a stiletto (like you have never seen before!) and a beautiful pagan look that managed to keep the ‘Summer in Hamptons’ feel that graced Spring/Summer 2015, but departed from the glam and glitz of previous collections (fur, leather, metallics). The very humble constructions of ties and drawstrings, simple wrap styles and basically ‘constructed’ pinafore-button and toggle styles made the line simple and yet deliciously elegant. The line was not all skimpy sundresses, Altuzarra threw in some strong trouser suits with wide pressed legs and simple one button blazers, the orange was a real collection hero, but the navy kept it grounded.

You make me feel like a natural woman

Within the agricultural Basque-country context, Altuzarra felt he would use ‘serene’ fabrics ‘close to nature’. Confronted with the qualities of the linens, cottons and raw silks, the use of natural beige and lots of white made perfect sense. There were some hand printed fabrics of green and blue, and even a tie dye affair which flirted with ‘gap-yah’ territory but the adult, below knee-length, tea- dress cut saved the pieces dignity. The natural lightness of crinkled silks and linens meant that sundresses looked light and breathable, and seasonal consideration was obvious and appreciated. Unfortunately, a collarless croc mac and vest thrown in were inappropriate and defied the overall feeling of the collection, not to mention Miu Miu nailed that for autumn/winter 2015. Whether Altuzarra is versatile or conflicted remains to be seen.

Baby got back?

Altuzarra has been curtly criticised for his lack of ‘wow factor’ in the collection, proving once again that fashion has become a not-so-ready-to-wear affair of peacocking. The pieces look soft to touch and weightless to wear, which should be commended. What Wonderland has to agree with though, is the criticism of Altuzarra’s choice of ‘unsmiling, neutral models’- a simple sundress could have certainly looked spicier clinging to curves.

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Words: Abigail Southan

NYFW: ALTUZARRA SS16

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