Suede swim caps, boiler suits and 30s influences, YMC remain masters of minimalism.
He painted Matchstalk Men
1930s references abounded at YMC – with the stick-figure boys in their straw bowlers and dusty linen chore jackets resembling characters from an L.S. Lowry painting. Sharply bonded fine-line knits in button vest and short combos, worker jackets and coats in washed out hues had a waist cincher, adding a new direction to the usually boxy cut, and loosely tapered trousers all worked harmoniously to maintain the intelligently minimalist feel YMC is adored for. The meaning of the soundtrack is always intriguing at YMC, with their head of design – Fraser Moss – being such a self confessed music obsessor; it is no surprise, then, that the audio and the visuals blended seamlessly.
The show seemed structured by colour: first came deep blues and indigos, next was evergreen, followed by black, and ending in rainbow(ish). Dotted cloud print was spotted throughout – with the base colour changing with the show. The blue section felt like the boys were off for a holiday on the Riviera – with their chin strapped suede swim caps and fluttering scarves tied at the neck. Pieces were repeated in the evergreen – a white bowling shirt with two coloured stripes across, jacket shapes and coloured cuff detailing. A camo print brought an explorer feel to the evergreen section, while dusty blacks and greys were where the 30s influence was fully realised. In the colourful section a proofed linen shirt was spotted with reds and yellows, and hi-shine PVC macs brought a futuristic feel to a classic cut.
Texture was incredibly well explored – metal was woven against linens and cottons to create malleable structures through jackets and outerwear. Tailored suede, brocade cotton and super soft denim appeared throughout. The drop-waist boiler suit, with an open chest and tailored trouser, brought the term work-wear into reality. YMC does what it does, and does it best. Considered minimalism with varied textures and layers are all based around a muted palette. This is a brand for the cool casual man, who wants precision – not fuss.
Photography: Christopher Dadey.
Words: Tom Rasmussen.