Beautifully oversized exposed thread jacquard prints, hand embroidered silks too-big-bombers and trapeze culottes, we take a closer look at Kit Neale SS16.

The new Oscar Wilde

Disheveled opulence was the order of the day at Kit Neale. In beautifully oversized exposed thread jacquard prints, hand embroidered silks and hats born from a collaboration with Bernstock Spiers, the boys and girls wafted through the showspace. From the luxurious nature of the fabrics across the board, to the dramatic floral prints in sapphire blues and hints of faded pink, the garments seemed to capture the enigmatic nature of the “bright young thing”. Think wealthy bohemian kids with impeccable taste, a knack for thrifting, and an attitude of such grandiose that no peer can match.

Raiding the Dress-up Box

A feeling that Neale so often conjures up is one of years gone by. Today was no different – with so many of the pieces smacking of the times you would wrap yourself up in curtains and use the tassels as earrings. He put the most muscular boys in long pink jackets and oversized culottes – almost resembling dresses – reminding us of those days in our youth before boys dressed like men and women wore the dresses (take us back!). The bucket hats looked unwillingly shoved on by parents worried about the British sun, and came in swirling primary colour patterns with gigantic bows flopping at the crown. The oversized nature of practically everything on the catwalk – with too-big-bombers and trapeze culottes – reiterated those dress up box days, minus the stench of mothballs and that slight damp feeling.

Paintbox Primaries

The colour palette was far more diverse than is usual for Neale – who normally focusses on a few colours within complementing spectrums. The influence for the collection was apparently predicated on the idea of the journey taken by mass-produced memorabilia and one of a kind-collectibles – all found at British Car Boot sales. With swooshes of pollen yellow and lime green, blue gingham and baby pink seersucker stripes, and silks in burnt orange and red, Neale really captured the overwhelming feeling of “the obsessive collector’” which can be played out as much on the catwalk, as it can atop a fold away table out the back of a car on Morecambe Sea Front. Spoiled for choice as ever.

 Words: Tom Rasmussen

Photography: Thurstan Redding