The report is in: familiarise yourself with the seven trends you’re set to be seen in come AW15.
Clean, minimalist, simply palleted – when did our wardrobes start to resemble Karlie Kloss’s nutritional plan? Things have been awfully serious in fashion recently, with designers serving up collection after collection of sartorial austerity. Change is well overdue and, thank goodness, the message has been heard. Perhaps it’s that 70s gesture we’ve been flirting with, but come september you can expect to have your style outlook revolutionised. AW15’s girl comes in many forms, but one thing’s for sure: she’s let her hair down. Embrace your inner party girl and blag yourself front row to the seven wonder trends of AW15.
Of all the 70s tribes in this season’s repertoire, the folk groupie is by far our favourite. All fringing, feathers and suede, these hipster girls move to the rhythm of their clothes – but don’t take them for breezy things. At Burberry, prints were psychedelic but tailoring was sharp. DSquared’s ikat prints were embroidered onto robust fabrics and teamed with armours of jewellery. Bulkier shapes came from Isabel Marant, where models sported oversized bomber jackets in wild prints and hemlines that screamed of attitude, whilst sex appeal at Chloe commanded a following all it’s own. Clever.
If you’ve bought into the spring penchant for florals this year, then well done you – the trend looks set to carry us well into fall as designers played favourites with the print for AW15. Don’t expect any old pansies though. Dolce & Gabbana favoured the rose, with a collection dotted with solitary embroidery, bold sequin work and jungle-esque prints. Blossoms verged on paisley and were patchworked onto Mary Katrantzou’s collection, accented by fiercely juxtaposing studded pockets. If you favour a resolute head-to-toe approach, Adam Lippe’s flared floral suit is just the ticket, whereas the minimalist should race to wrap themselves in Celine’s fur trimmed coat. In fact, everyone should.
Do the 80s make you squirm? Prepare for an attitude adjustment. Designers called upon the era to create a multitude of party girl looks – all shiny fabrics and shoulder pads. Heaven. Missoni did it best, elevating the house’s signature prints to new heights with clashing, metallics and oversized blazers teamed with glitter tights. Saint Laurent proposed an 80s bad girl, all skin baring leather and ripped stockings – glam and vamp in equal measure. Monique Lhuillier was our uptown girl, in silky, shoulder padded evening wear, but if the idea of either gives you heart palpitations, head straight to Topshop Unique, where it was all very above board: wearable pieces for the rosy-cheeked young lady, perfect for afternoon tea at The Ritz.
Things were feeling rather sensual on the fall catwalks, with impulse accents of fur, shearling, leather and feather popping up everywhere. At Marni, sleek looks were given where-the-wild-things-are sleeves and python belts added an indigenous edge. While at Jitrois, they presented the epitome of Material Girls this AW15 with fur and leather galore in their 70s inspired looks. Luxe quilting held court at Chanel, in feminine floral applique and bejewelled collars, whilst Fendi’s pinocchio-esque leather vests and skirts cast a hard line next to models’ furry boot-shod toes. Luxe fur pockets sashayed down the catwalk at Rochas, alongside asymmetric beading and feathered underskirts that complimented the collection’s lark print quite nicely.
If you invest in any colour next season, make it blue. It was accented everywhere in collections, in a prism of shades to suit every wardrobe – except, navy. At DKNY, lapis lazuli tones were woven into preppy v-neck sweaters and gorgeous oversized coats, making easy work of incorporating the trend. At Armani, baby shades were worn head-to-toe in relaxed tailoring and matching accessories, whilst at Hugo Boss, the indigo mohair vest is set to become our most coveted autumn look. Pastel tones were worked to great effect at Altuzarra too, and were complemented with generous caramel fur collars – divine.
There was a definite strength of character throughout the fall collections, but we enjoyed it most in street-wise versions. At Moschino, Jeremy Scott paired bright luxe puffa’s with graffiti and pimped looney tunes, as well as fresh plays on denim for a blatant but playful reference to street culture. Ashish was on the same page, with models in nothing but thigh-high patent red boots, slips and bulky overcoats, as well as a very 90s use of tartan. Urban warriors navigated the catwalk at Alexander Wang, in bulky silhouettes and armoured eveningwear. Finally, prints and khaki colours spoke of an urban jungle at 3.1 Phillip Lim, whilst tartan again gave a tribal punk edge to Marc by Marc Jacobs that we think is going to be big news – you heard it here first.
Sex appeal: designers were all over it at the shows. But isn’t it so much more intriguing when a little inconspicuous? As much as anything else, there was a soft sophistication to the fall collections, with an undercut of pure seduction. At MaxMara, caramel, duck-egg and cream blanket coats were wrapped generously around 50s inspired beauties. Teamed with neat gingham pencil skirts, a nod to Marilyn circa 1962 was clear. Hemlines were equally long at Emilia Wickstead, who’s pastel boucle designs were ideal for the uptown girl within, whilst for Lemaire, the shawl took centre stage, alongside duffel-coats-come-poncho’s and flowing skirts. Should you shy away from neutrals, look no further than Miu Miu, who presented a collection of bright gingham and clashing prints across neat pleated skirts and elegant overcoats.
Words: Hannah Rogers.