Wonderland.

PFW: JUNYA WATANABE

Block colours and intricate origami shapes, with more straight lines and angles than a geometry class, Junya Watanabe AW15 was a sight to behold.

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Origami Headgear

It isn’t exactly a wearable collection. You’re never going to slip on your hollowed out exoskeleton of a jacket with your fave jeans and lift on a Junya Watanabe hat, are you? Headgear unfurled like impressive feats of origami, ballooning out from hairlines, the shape of Chinese lanterns. Forgive us, Watanabe, for saying some of your models looked like lightbulbs, or spoons, it was endearing and impressive craftsmanship. That’s the difference between LFW and PFW perhaps. Here in London, we’re often thrown together, undone and hedonistic, Paris is enviably all about the precision and perfection.

The Golden Ratio

There’s an equation or number in mathematics that’s apparently perfect, the most appealing to the human eye and occurring often in nature. We’re not going to pretend to understand it, but we’re pretty certain Watanabe probably had it in mind when designing. Ponchos, if you can call them that, look as delicate as crepe paper party chains, interlinked by perfect hexagons, like the internal workings of a beehive. It could have almost been romantic, if skin had peeked out underneath instead of crisp, white shirts. Instead, the collection was decidedly cold and scientific, right down to the scribblings on the models’ hands.

Ready for Business

If you strip back all the drama, there’s something you could wear somewhere. Shirts, trousers and jersey all in ones are ready for work and play respectively. And the shoes, oh the shoes, black patent lace ups with miniature studs, a hint of embellishment in a block colour collection.

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Words: Lily Walker

PFW: JUNYA WATANABE

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