Plastic masked faces, bodies swathed in silk and deconstructed suiting. Undercover AW15 was eerie and beautiful in equal measure.
PFW: Undercover AW15
Within the mirrored banquet room at the Grand Hotel Paris, models walked the catwalk at Undercover AW15, faces concealed by full and half-face plastic masks, to the sound of eerie horror film piano keys. Sheer loose white trousers, with denim panels to the rear, were worn with a white fur coat, complete with a diamanté dagger on the back – a nod to plastic surgery and the prescribed stereotypes of beauty, no doubt.
The unnerving doll-like models wore oversized leather jackets and collegiate Varsity style bombers complete with bulbous, volumised backs. Meanwhile alternate outerwear came in the shape of lacquered plastic jackets and long-line coats, painted with a tortoise-shell type pattern, necks and sleeves trimmed with fur.
Lashings of burgundy and grey silk swathed the models bodies setting a mood of ultimate luxury and amplified opulence. Draped over bomber jackets, for Undercover AW15 the themes of old and new collide. Deconstructed black suiting came in mash-up of sheer and silk fabrics, coats detached and encrusted with glittering jewels.
The show closed with four three piece suits. Cream, caramel, grey and black each stitched with fragments of mirror, protruding outwards – a further comment on the notion of surface beauty – whilst the sound of Johnny Cash’s cover of Hurt played through the speakers at heart palpitating volume.