Dark and dramatic, Marc Jacobs’ AW15 collection is opulence defined.
NYFW: Marc Jacobs AW15
‘Requiem for a Dark, Depraved Dream’
A statement-making show throughout, with 37-year-old model veteran Erin O’Connor opening for Marc Jacobs’ first collection since the designer’s departure from Louis Vuitton. Amidst the cavernous, wood-paneled grandeur of the Park Avenue Armory, a painted backdrop of Diana Vreeland’s sitting room, with heavy brushstrokes reflected in the frenetic energy of Darren Aronofsky’s epic Requiem for a Dream.
The mood was dark, dusty – gothic with a sinister sparkle.
Shin-grazing silhouettes hearkened to the turn-of the century, yet met with modern innovations in fabric and texture, felt newly electrified: grommets smattered over long, old-fashioned pleated skirts, and shoulder-hugging furs in a plaid design, reminiscent of Jacobs’ history-making grunge collection for Perry Ellis.
It was old and new, the best of both worlds, and plenty of it – a whopping fifty-four looks. Kendall Jenner got faded yellow roses on a pleated housewife number, belted and draped with a tweedy midnight blue coat. For Julia Nobis, it was a Cruella de Vil-worthy fur out of half-plucked black-and-white tufts; for Jamie Bochert, a navy wool jacket trimmed with dusty violet sequins.
Bette Davis’s depraved Baby Jane served as beauty inspiration of the night: pale skin, paired with accentuated eye sockets and thin Clara Bow brows. Rakish, half-done top-knots at the front of the head appeared from afar like severed horns – combined with the rest, a masterpiece of modern fashion drama.